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Elevation: 6,993 ft 2,131 m
GPS: 39.40492, -105.34192
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Shared By: Josh on Aug 8, 2024
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Description Suggest change

Welcome to the Narrow Gauge Slabs, a friendly addition to the historic South Platte region (traditional lands of the Nuu-agha-tuvu-pu [Ute]) designed especially for newer climbers, families, guided parties, and folks breaking into leading friction climbs.

The crag is the result of a multiyear collaboration between public land managers, climbing organizations, local businesses, and individuals. The project brought together a genuinely diverse coalition of route developers that reflects the breadth and vitality of our climbing community. Huge thanks to the JeffCo Open Space climbing committee, Boulder Climbing Community (BCC), American Alpine Club’s Denver chapter, Arc’teryx RiNo, Brown Girls Climb Colorado, Escala, Latino Outdoors, Cruxing in Color, Bent Gate Mountaineering, C.A.M.P. Equipment, and the dozens of individual volunteers and route developers who made this possible, as well as the individual donors who funded the route hardware. It was truly a community effort.

Expect mostly pure friction and small edging on moderately angled granite slabs, with a few interesting trad cracks thrown in for good measure. All routes can be managed with a 60-meter rope. All P1 and single-pitch anchors have hooks.

The multipitch routes all ease off a lot after P1, but they offer big views, a lovely summit for picnicking, and a chance for multipitch practice on well-protected terrain. To walk off, take the access trail at climbers left. There are basically 4 ½ topout routes, and several different first pitches could link into each. All upper-pitch anchors have rappel rings.

2 anchor practice stations at the base. The entire park is mostly beyond cell range, except for the very top of the formation, where you may get enough signal for text messages. As per JCOS regulations, dogs must be on leash at all times. There are bathrooms at the lower parking area.

The Slabs are south-facing-- best enjoyed in the fall and spring, or warm winter days and summer mornings.

Getting There Suggest change

The crag is in Pine Valley Ranch Park, just outside of the town of Pine.  From the Denver area, follow Highway 285 south to the traffic light at Pine Junction, where a sign points left to Pine Valley Ranch Park. (This is about a mile past the turn to Staunton State Park).  Turn left (south) onto Pine Valley Road and follow it for about 6 winding miles.  Turn right onto Crystal Lake Road (sign just after a sharp left curve points right for the park) and follow it to its end at the park entrance.

 

Park in any of the three ample parking levels and pick up the Narrow Gauge Trail just beyond the lowest one.  Follow the Narrow Gauge Trail downstream (left) for 2/3 mile.  Just past a 20ft high, square-cut rock outcrop next to the trail, look for a sign and a trail branching off left at a low rock bench.  Please stay on the trail and don’t cut directly uphill, even though you can see the crag above you.

Routes - L to R

Suggest change

In the future, there may be additional routes starting in the leftside gully (where the top access trail is), but for now, there is still loose rock and unstable slopes in there, so please stay off.  Similarly, the far-right end of the rock may someday host a few more lines, but for now it is past the boundary of the established crag.  Starting from the left, just above where the first stairs of the access trail begin, the routes are:

 

Orthogonality – sport, 5.7, 2 pitches, 180 feet

Cielito Lindo – sport, 5.4, 3 pitches, 275 feet

Plus Altra – trad, 5.4/5.5, 1 pitch, 175 feet

Fledgling – mixed gear & bolts, 5.5, 1 pitch, 100 feet

Con Cuidado / Con Cuidado y Comunidad (topout version) – sport, 5.6, 1 or 3 pitches, 95 or 260 feet

Seeding, Seating, Sewing, Sending – trad, 5.7 PG-13, 1-2 pitches, 115 or 275 feet

Bonsai – sport, 5.7/5.7+, 3 pitches, 275 feet

Warm Fuzzy – sport, 5.9, 1 pitch, 90 feet

When it Rains it Pours – trad, 5.4, 1 pitch, 85 feet

More of Us – sport, 5.6, 1 pitch, 70 feet

Ursa Minor – sport, 5.8, 1-2 pitches, 75 or 135 feet

In Defense – sport, 5.4, 1 pitch, 70 feet

Kemushi – sport, 5.8 (5.5), 1 pitch, 70 feet

The Very Hungry Caterpillar -- trad, 5.3, 1 pitch, 75 feet

15 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Narrow Gauge Slabs

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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