Parete di Padaro Rock Climbing

APPROACH

Parking is not easy: anywhere inside the small village of Padaro parking is allowed only for residents. There are a small number of parking spots along the very narrow paved road "Strada Varignano Padaro" between the village and the Parete di Padaro.

The most convenient (but few) parking spots for the south-west routes (e.g. Elison, Esculapio or Artemis) are probably at GPS: 45.93775, 10.87281  From the paved road it is possible to see the wide chimney of the 2nd pitch of Esculapio and use it as a reference. After parking, hike uphill on the paved road to the right U-turning bend at GPS: 45.936625, 10.870497   From there a trail (red round marks) starts west across a scree/rubble reaching the long traversing trail in the woods that connects the bottom of all routes.

If climbing north-east routes such as Via della Rampa (or if the lower parking spots are taken) other convenient parking spots can be found for instance at GPS: 45.940812, 10.873337  

DESCENT

A trail traverses across connecting the top of all routes with both the descent trail (option A below) and/or with the shared rappel station (option B below).

Descent Option A (1hour 30min, easier and safer in case of storm, or on very busy days with many parties descending). Once at the top of any of the routes, find the blue signs marking the traversing trail and turn climber-left on it. At first continue uphill connecting to a dirt road, then take a downhill trail to the village of Padaro. Finally follow uphill the paved road to the parking spots.

Descent Option B (50min, without any doubts way way more fun, but less advisable if parties are behind, because of quite possible rock fall from above the last rappel). If topping Esculapio or Elision routes turn climber-0right on the traversing trail. Instead, if topping the other routes turn climber-left. Follow the traversing trail until near the top of Artemis route and find the metal box with the routes' book. From there, downclimb a short 25ft = 7.5m to the first rappel station.
Rappel1 (20m, 2 bolts and rap ring).
Downscramble+Downclimb moving skier-right along some woods on a ledge for 5min. Along the way there are also several 5.2 II steeper downclimb sections.
Rappel2 (40m, 2 bolts and rap ring).
After the rappel, walk 16ft (5m) skier-right to the right edge of the wide terrace and find the last rappel station. Some loose rocks. Extreme caution is imperative on a busy day with other parties rappelling below.
Rappel3 (50m, slings on trees with rap ring).
Lean out well on the extremely exposed ledge, keeping high feet. Cut the feet and release rope to rappel passed the large roof into a breathtaking 50m rappel in the void several meters away from the wall. At the bottom one can see a 15ft (5m) wide gorge between the main wall and a separate very wide pinnacle block: do not rappel into the gorge. Instead try to push off the wall a generate a pendulum swing in order to land on the separate pinnacle top near a tree (timing is crucial: too late and you are in the gorge, too early and you cannot stick the pinnacle with your feet falling back into the pendulum).
Downclimb (5.2 II, 10m) the wide pinnacle block to the woods below.
Down-Scramble for 20m trending skier-right, crossing a scree and ending on the paved road that comes up from Padaro Village

NOTE: Rock climbing is inherently a potentially very dangerous activity if not practiced with the necessary preparation and experience. This description is the result of the peronsal experience of the author and it CANNOT be considered unquestionably reliable. The author of this description shall NOT be liable for any lost profits or indirect, incidental, special, exemplary, punitive or consequential damages, including but not limited to any damages due to possible errors and including but not limited to any possible inconvenience, accidents, loss or damages of any kind that may result from using the information in this description.