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Wolfmother's

Colorado > Grand Junction… > Unaweep Canyon > Main Canyon: Un… > Mother's Buttress

Description

This is a phenomenal new zone, notable for highly featured gniessic rock lined with compact, crystal dikes and other uncommon geologic curiosities. This metamorphosed variety is extremely conducive to face climbing - much more than the blank faces and flared cracks found elsewhere ;)

However, because of this featured quality, it's very easy to get off route here, and there are still loose blocks lurking in-between established routes, so be very careful and check the topo/descriptions carefully.

This crag is stacked with multi-pitch 11s with room for a couple more and is great for quick link-ups, since you can rap Paw Prints (and now Pet Cemetery as well) with a single 70m rope. The first pitch of each of these routes are also very good, so a day of cragging here is also worthy.

A recommended tour of this wall would be to warm up on the first two pitches of Tooth & Claw, rap with a 70 (p2 can be tr’d from the ledge) then move right onto whatever looks appealing. The link up of Pet Cemetery into the upper two pitches Church for Thugs (Surreptitiously named “Church for Pugs”) is a canyon classic, though both lines by themselves are excellent. Alternatively, you could warm up on Paw Prints, linking the first two pitches, do the classic third pitch, and then rap and get on something else.

In the warmer seasons, this wall is in the shade until about 11am, depending on the route, so it's possible to climb here with an early enough start. By the time it's in full sun, Cave Buttress, on the other end of the Mother's Complex, goes into the shade, providing a great opportunity for shade or sun-chasing link-ups. In the winter, it goes into the sun earlier, roughly by 10am, and bakes all afternoon. Unless there is wind, you can climb here in a t-shirt when it's 35 degrees. It's amazing.

Getting There

From the Mother's Buttress Parking Area, hike to Other Mother's: taking a left at the first fork and moving west along the wall to the cut off trail up to Other Mother's. From the base of the cliff, hike left along the wall, around an obvious buttress and up a scree gully. The bolts of Monk Sandals will obvious on your right as you begin to go uphill. Alley Cat and the start to Paw Prints will be straight above you at the top of this scree gully. For all other routes, look for a climber trail that cuts left away from the cliff and heads up to the main face, taking you to the start of Church for Thugs on the left and Saudade por Unai on the right. It is a 15-20 minute approach.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
Claw Marks
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 3
Tooth & Claw
Trad 4 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
 3
Church for Thugs
Trad 3 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 3
Pet Cemetery
Trad 4 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
 3
Saudade por Unai
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 9
With Teeth
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 8
The Persistence of Loss
Trad 3 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Playing Pawesome
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 5
Furry Fruit Loop
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 7
Paw Prints
Trad 4 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
 2
Hour of the Wolf
Trad 4 pitches
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 11
Alley Cat
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 2
Ghost Dog
Trad 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Claw Marks
 4
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Tooth & Claw
 3
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 4 pitches
Church for Thugs
 3
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Pet Cemetery
 3
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad 4 pitches
Saudade por Unai
 3
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R Trad
With Teeth
 9
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
The Persistence of Loss
 8
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 3 pitches
Playing Pawesome
 3
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Furry Fruit Loop
 5
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Paw Prints
 7
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 4 pitches
Hour of the Wolf
 2
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 Trad 4 pitches
Alley Cat
 11
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
Ghost Dog
 2
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

A Wolfmother's topo.
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<br>
Tooth&Claw: white.
<br>
Church for Thugs: blue.
<br>
Pet Cemetery: red.
<br>
Playing Pawesome: dark green.
<br>
Saudade por Unai: black.
<br>
With Teeth: orange.
<br>
Furry Fruit Loop: fuschia
<br>
Paw Prints: yellow.
<br>
Hour of the Wolf: Light Blue
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Alley Cat:
[Hide Photo] A Wolfmother's topo. Tooth&Claw: white. Church for Thugs: blue. Pet Cemetery: red. Playing Pawesome: dark green. Saudade por Unai: black. With Teeth: orange. Furry Fruit Loop: fuschia Paw…