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Bear Springs - AKA, The Dance Hall Rock Climbing
| Elevation: | 3,056 ft | 931 m |
| GPS: |
45.44157, -121.58367 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 1,629 total · 131/month | |
| Shared By: | Patrick Aalto on Dec 5, 2023 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Roberta Zouain, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
Description
Walter Burkhardt was the first to put up three routes here - Unsure when he stopped visiting the area. A group of 15+ people have been working up here since 2019.
The Dance Hall is a west-facing climbing crag located within Mount Hood National Forest, at an elevation of 2,600 feet. There are two sections to the crag: the first section has a large collection of easy and moderate climbs, with some harder routes into the upper 5.11's, though I'm sure there are some harder routes to be found; the second section is significantly taller and has a different character to the climbs with most being dead-vertical with small roofs and sections of thinly-featured rock where most get their hard grades. The second section is tall, as well. There will likely be some 100-foot climbs in there. Both sections have tons of potential with many more routes to come. In total we have put up 26 routes so far. The bulk are sport-bolted, though we are beginning to find some great trad or mixed routes.
Please understand, this is a new crag that is under development. As such, the trail might not be perfect (always improving), and the climbs might be a little dirty and might have (small) loose rocks. As we develop, we are doing our best to remove every loose and potentially dangerous rock, but it is nature and ever-changing. Take-away: Bring a helmet! And maybe bring a brush to scrub while you're being lowered.
All routes WILL (working on it) have permanent sport draws installed at the top for anchors. Clip and lower but please do not top-rope through the fixed gear.
Walk to the far end and enjoy the spring. Thats right, a spring! This area has a very natural feel to it. Please keep it this way by walking only on the trails and spur trails to belay areas. The natural feel is enhanced by the sound of Tilly Jane Creek below the walls. Enjoy the sounds of nature, try hard and enjoy. The Dance Hall is a great place for dogs - Don't be a turd, clean up any poop.
Getting There
The crag is located off of Highway 35 between Hood River and Mount Hood Meadows.
From Hood River - Drive South from I-84 towards Mount Hood on Highway 35, for 20 miles. At 20 miles, look for guard rails on both sides of the road and a paved parking area on the east side (left) of the road immediately after the guard rails. Park here and walk into disused forest road across the highway.
From Government Camp - 21 miles from the rest area in Government Camp; Continue east on OR-26 to the junction of Highway 35, north towards Hood River. Take the exit onto Highway 35 towards Hood River. After passing the road to Cooper Spur, drive 2.25 miles further and look for the paved parking area on the east side (right) of the road. Park here and walk into disused forest road across the highway.
Walking direction -
After crossing highway 35, walk around the gate and follow the disused forest road uphill to the left for about 250 feet. When this road ends, look to your left, towards the obvious hill to find the beginning of the trail. Begin up a steep section and immediately turn left. Follow the trail around a few more switchbacks and turns. The pitch of the hill lessens as you switch back a couple of times, until you reach a scree field. Head slightly downhill as you cross the scree, finding your way on the ever-improving trail (look for yellow tape). You will pass through some trees and then scree again. When the scree ends, walk through some small trees and switchback left uphill. Walk 100 feet more to the obvious squeeze between a beautiful Ponderosa Pine and the cliff. From here the trail is more obvious and levels beneath the cliff line. Follow the cliff into the forest to locate the first climb, One is the Loneliest Number.
Note: This trail is improving every year, but for now (2024) it is pretty new and sturdy shoes are recommended. NO FLIP-FLOPS:)!
Classic Climbing Routes at Bear Springs - AKA, The Dance Hall
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