Chain of Ponds Rock Climbing

The Chain of Ponds is a series of small lakes in western Maine, along the North Branch of the Dead River. The area is located about 10km east of the border between Maine and Quebec, on state highway 27. It is about 30 minutes northwest of the Sugarloaf Ski Area.

Perhaps due to its out of the way location, this area has not seen a lot of climbing activity. However, it is a beautiful location with a relaxed and remote ambience, and has some excellent climbs. It is definitely worth a visit.

There are several separate crags, formed of granite and gneiss, on the north side of the ponds. The largest of these crags is Natanis Perch, which is perched up on a hill above Natanis Pond. Nearby, the smaller Natanis Pond Crag is just above the road, next to its namesake pond. The Four Seasons Crag is a little to the east, and completely hidden in the woods. All three of these crags are formed of devonian granite. Further east, at Lower Pond, the rock changes to a Precambrian gneiss. The Lower Pond Crag is a cliff band formed from that gneiss.

There are several spots in the area where you can camp for free, and there is a commercial campground with services (Natanis Point Campground) on the west side of Natanis Pond. Adjacent to the parking spot for Lower Pond Crag is good access to a rocky beach for swimming. The official highway scenic overlook above Natanis Pond provides a wide overview of the area along with historic information.

Climbing history.  There is evidence of historic climbing activity at Chain of Ponds. Rusty old pins at Natanis Perch and Lower Pond Crag indicate that some climbing occurred there sometime in the late 20th century. Similarly, there was a line of rusty old bolts on a rock feature adjacent to the Natanis Pond Crag.  However, there is no record of the routes climbed, or who climbed them. A small group of people have been climbing the ice at Four Seasons Crag for decades, but only recently have any rock routes been established there. All four of the crags at Chain of Ponds have seen a burst of activity since 2020, with many new routes being established.

If anyone has information about historic climbing in this area, please submit a comment to share the info.