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Elevation: 582 ft 177 m
GPS: 34.03998, -86.02486
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Brian Murphey on Aug 25, 2023
Admins: Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend

Description Suggest change

The Southeastern Climber's Coalition (SCC), in partnership with the City of Gadsden, recently opened Noccalula Falls Park to climbing and bouldering. Encompassing 500 acres of land situated in the foothills of the Appalachian Mountains, Noccalula Falls Park and Campground is a must-see destination in Northeast Alabama. Created and managed by the City of Gadsden Parks and Recreation Department, the original park opened in 1953 and has since become the destination of hikers, campers, and families from all over the world.

Black Creek pours over the park's namesake falls, then rushes down through the bottom of the gorge. Sandstone cliffs line the north and south side of the gorge, and large, tumble-down boulders lay along the creek and up the forested slopes.

Climbing and bouldering development has just begun, so check back regularly for new routes and problems. Developing new routes and problems requires applying for a permit through the Noccalula Route Development Task Force. Developing without a permit is strictly prohibited. Please visit the SCC's website at seclimbers.org/project/nocc… to learn more about the permit process.

Currently, most of the developed climbing routes are on the north side of the gorge, and are a mix of trad and sport. The climbs are generally short - under 60 feet - but the rock quality is good. Climb only on established routes, and do not climb anywhere near the falls. All climbing must be started from the Gorge Trail along the base of the cliff. Setting top ropes from the top of the cliff is strictly prohibited.

Bouldering exists in 4 distinct areas along the creek. Boulder only on established problems and only within the identified areas. Take care not to damage vegetation with crash pads, and walk only on existing paths.

Refer to the Noccalula Climbing Map for more information on climbing and bouldering locations.

Getting There Suggest change

There are two sides to the park. You can pay to park and enter from the south side, or you can park at the large parking lot along the north side in front of the chapel and the campground and hike in for free.

From the north parking lot, head down Black Creek Trail. There are two entrances down to the Gorge Trail, both on the left: A short, but often slippery, scramble-down a couple hundred yards from the parking lot, or a well-built wooden stair roughly a third of a mile from the parking lot.

The scramble-down puts you just about at the end of the allowed climbing area, with the short sport route "Sergii's Sandbox" immediately on the left as you face the creek.

If you take the stairs, make a left at the bottom and you will soon come to the West Wall. The first climb along this wall is the longer bolted route, "Tis All Good Man".

To access the south side of the Gorge, from the bottom of the stairs go right and hike down to the suspension bridge. Cross the bridge and continue following the Gorge Trail back east and up toward the base of the cliff.

62 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Noccalula Falls

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
Sergii's Sandbox
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 6
Fifty Percent Off
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Sergii's Sandbox E Wall
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Fifty Percent Off E Wall
 6
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
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