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Elevation: 3,275 ft 998 m
GPS: 44.41904, 10.41094
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 409 total · 18/month
Shared By: MattH on Jul 5, 2023
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

Description Suggest change

The sheer vertical walls of the Pietra di Bismantova dominate the landscape of the northern Apennine mountains and beg to be climbed upon first sight. Thankfully, the rock type obliges with steep-for-the-grade climbing on the rock's natural ripples. The formation is made of calcarenite, a sandstone-like limestone, of which this formation is the most famous example.

There is a great variety of styles available: though vert or just-past-vert face climbs in the 5c-7c range are the area's signature, you'll also find no shortage of cracks, chimneys, and dihedrals, as well as a number of sectors of uber-steep, perma-draw-clad routes (the steep amphitheater accessed from the summit is a sight to behold). The sometimes fickle rock yields surprisingly few full-length multipitch free routes for a limestone crag of this size (maybe a dozen or so), but those that exist are stellar both for their character of the climbing and the sheer exposure.

As the rock is effectively a sandstone, it is recommended to avoid the area shortly after rainfall.

Getting There Suggest change

From Modena, drive about an hour south to the town of Castelnovo ne Monti and follow the signs for Pietra di Bismantova up to the large paved parking lot at the southern end of the formation. For the main wall, take the paved path up and turn left at the church, following the path around left. The first sector will appear on your right about 100m past where the trail loops back above the Rifugio (the classic Zuffa-Ruggiero route is found here just left of a couple hard techy sport routes).

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