Square Dock (Squaredock) Mountain Climbing
| Elevation: | 915 ft | 279 m |
| GPS: |
44.28903, -70.79201 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 853 total · 24/month | |
| Shared By: | Tom Kelley on Apr 24, 2023 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall, Chris Duca |
Description
Square Dock Mountain (as labeled on maps), sometimes spelled Squaredock (by many climbers and guides), is an area that offers both rock climbing and at least a few ice climbs, including the backcountry classic Big Science. This is south facing, so can get baked out quickly, or not even form.
The rock climbing section has recently (Mar 2025) been re-organized into the individual sub-areas and it is hoped more routes and photos will be added!
Getting There
Drive to the World Traveler Signpost, via Route 35. If coming from the south, Portland is 1 hour 20 minutes away from the signpost. Turn north (right) on Route 35 North/Route 5 North. Take Mosquito Pond Rd, on the left at 19 miles, 30 minutes. One minute, or 0.1 miles on the left, is a dirt road (there is an unlocked gate/barricade). There is a "parking area" in a clearing, visible on Google Maps (satellite), maybe half a mile down. The Ledge's rough GPS coordinates are 44.289386, -70.791761, though the cliff band goes further left too.
Getting there in winter for ice, with snow in the ground, is different than going for rock the rest of the year. From the signpost, drive on Route 5 for 3.3 miles past the signpost. Double back on for to the Crooked River (which should have been crossed twice while driving -- confusing, since there are many brooks that branch off from Crooked), just past which there is a snowmobile trail. Keep going and the cliff will become visible. The trail forks, but both lead to the crag. A chimney left of cliff's center, which is accessed by a going over the talus at the bottom. GPS coordinates are likely 44.288703, -70.793510, more or less.
NOTE- There’s a good description in the Bouldering sub-area that describes “getting there” with a bit more detail. R. Hall, Admin.
Classic Climbing Routes at Square Dock (Squaredock) Mountain
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Photos
All Photos Within Square Dock (Squaredock) Mountain
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