Arizona Tepui Rock Climbing
Elevation: | 6,263 ft | 1,909 m |
GPS: |
33.78874, -110.95137 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 293 total · 11/month | |
Shared By: | Kevin Kent on Feb 14, 2023 | |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
A striking, 300’ tall hunk of rock standing proud over the main entryway to the Sierra Ancha. Looking out at Parker Canyon, Roosevelt Lake, and Four Peaks, the formation is well situated. The generally hard sandstone (possibly mixed with some rhyolite and quartzite?) and the exotic, featured boulders on the otherwise flat summit make this formation mildly reminiscent of a miniature South American Tepui. As of 2023 there is only one real route here (besides a short, sparsely protected 5.7 that summits from the saddle behind the formation) but there is space for at least a dozen more 2-3 pitch, high quality lines.
In my opinion, the rock here climbs much, much better than the nearby Sierra Ancha crags Workman Falls and the Icebox.
Camping:
Camping is available alongside Pocket Creek as mentioned in the directions, but for 5-star views there are several obvious spots with stunning vistas on the rim of Parker Canyon that you pass on the way in. Alternatively, if camping in the winter, it might be a good idea to camp down by the shore of Roosevelt Lake, which is only 15-20 minutes away, but 2500’ lower, thus significantly warmer.
Season:
Winter. While there are East and Northwest aspects holding route potential, the bulk of formation gets all day sun. The wall sits at around 6300’ in elevation and seems to catch nice breezes, making the prime season sunny days between late November and early March.
Getting There
Driving Directions:
Take AZ-288 (paved) into the Sierra Ancha from near Roosevelt Lake and the Salt River. Turn onto FS-489 (Pocket Creek Road), there are a few parking spots for low clearance vehicles 500’ down the road (or you can park along the paved road too). Alternatively, medium clearance vehicles can make it to a nice campsite and parking area a quarter mile up the road (across from an old building foundation). The campsite parking area is only a 4 minute walk from the paved road. It's an easy drive from most places in Arizona: 2 hours from Phoenix, 2.5 from Tucson, and 3 from Flagstaff.
Approach:
Just over a mile and 1200' up. Takes about an hour.
See gps track, but from the camping/parking at the old building foundation walk up the road about 3 minutes, cross Pocket Creek and then follow a pleasant drainage for about 30 minutes. Then, where the drainage opens up to slickrock, head left up a steep hillside and follow a faint climber trail for 30 more minutes to the base of the cliff.
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