North face of First Brother Climbing
Elevation: | 2,416 ft | 736 m |
GPS: |
44.19234, -73.83399 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 484 total · 18/month | |
Shared By: | Gunkiemike on Jan 13, 2023 | |
Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
Description
There is good ice back in them thar hills! Here's a virtually unknown, or at least a never-previously-reported, area. Reliable ice across the full grade spectrum from 70 degree slab to arm-busting vertical. All are half ropelength or less, with the easier lines being especially top rope friendly. There are two distinct areas a few minutes apart: the "Pillar Sector", home to, as the name implies, steep ice including a pair of testy pillars; and the "Slab Sector" which is like a backwoods version of Pitchoff Right. If you were to follow the alternate approach given in Blue Lines 2 to the DuBois route "Romantic Date", you might walk past the slab as it lies just 200 feet from the bottom of the drainage mentioned for that route in BL2. (Show of hands... How many of you have climbed Romantic Date? Yeah, that's what I thought.)
The first 3 routes described here are in the Pillar area. The others are on the slabby wall. Each is best approached from below, with the pillar area lying higher on the mountain side. Both lie at the lower edge of the evergreen trees. You want to hike in through the lower, open hardwood forest, staying below the boulders. Then head up when you see the pillars (or stay mostly straight to reach the slab). Travel between the two areas is not long, maybe 2-300 yds, but it is a mess of large boulders and is a real chore in deep snow.
Getting There
From the Garden parking lot in Keene Valley, go up the Brothers trail (toward Big Slide Mt) for about 20 minutes or 2/3 mile. When you come to the first large rocks adjacent to the trail, one of which has a yellow, left-pointing arrow painted on it, leave the trail towards the right and contour across the slope with no real elevation change for 25 minutes (longer if deep snow slows you down). You'll want to stay in the open woods (birch, beech, maple trees) below the boulders. If you find yourself fighting evergreens and/or boulders, you have gone too high. You'll need a sharp eye to spy the prominent pillar of the first area; the slab lies a few minutes farther in and should come into view shortly after passing below one then a second isolated 12' tall boulder.
As you traverse the slope you'll step over one or two small streams. Curiously, these don't seem to drain any upslope ice as one might expect; or at least not any that have been found yet (wink).
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