Salbitschijen Southridge Rock Climbing
Elevation: | 9,698 ft | 2,956 m |
GPS: |
46.6806, 8.52939 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 335 total · 12/month | |
Shared By: | Victor C on Jan 12, 2023 | |
Admins: | Mark P., James H, Dan Flynn |
Description
The beautiful ridge whose profile looms large from the Salbit hut. The ridge can be climbed directly on the Südgrat. Alternatively there are many wonderful climbs (Clog & Stock/Nederman/Villiger) that attack the face/corner systems below the ridge and finish on/near the ridge itself.
In the high seasons (July/August), there will be many rope teams on the ridge some more proficient than others. You can a good idea of the planned iteneraries from the hut warden.
Getting There
From the Salbit hut, take the descending path towards the Salbitschijen. Follow signs for the Salbit Brucke. As the path gains height and just before reaching the pass which allows you to change sides from the south to west ridges, leave the path (white writing "Sudgrat" on a boulder at the junction) and follow the climbers trail. This path quickly gains altitude towards the south ridge, leading towards a vegetated gully that climbs to the crest of the ridge.
Südgrat: Climb in the gully staying on the right side, which is secured with pegs and arrows indicating the intended path. Near the top there is some 5.grass climbing that can be difficult when wet. At the top of the gully, there is a grassy terrace from which you can begin scrambling up the south ridge to a boulder with the white writing "ascent direct 10h" and the continuing on teh left you come near a metal plate with writing "Sudgrat." Some parties opt to rope up here as the remainder of the approach involves 4th and low 5th class, but I did not find it too intense in approach shoes. Climb the channel to the right of the plate and when it narrows exit to the right onto a slab with a delicate step. Above you climb slightly right to a slab, going up while keeping left where the terrain is easier. You will find then the comfortable small belay terrace where the first pitch of the Südgrat begins (assorted tat/cord/peg...) The bolts of the first pitch should be visibile above. Total approach time ~1h15
Nederman, Clog and Stock, and Villiger: Do not climb up the Südgrat gully but rather leave the path and follow the footpath running along the base of the wall to the start of the desired climb. Crampons and ice axe may be required depending on the amount of nève at the start.
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