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South Face

International > Africa > Morocco > Taghia > Taoujdad

Description

Beautiful sustained slabs in the 5.10/5.11 range. These routes get sun for most of the day. To summit a light rack is recommended for the final easier pitches. It advisable to climb with double ropes or a single rope and a tag line. If you top out and plan to walk off, one 40 meter rappel is required. Scramble east from the summit following the cairns to the rappel anchor. At the base of the rappel continue down the east ridge along the climbers path toward the gulley between Taoujdad and Oujdad. This gulley is easily identified by the white quartzite streaks set in dark rock.

Getting There

Take the right gulley when walking from Paroi Des Sources. You have to navigate around a number of house-sized boulders as you ascend the gully. High up in the gully you can see distinctive white quartzite streaks that running vertically up the center of the gully. About half way up the gulley you will need to scramble a traverse left and up along various ledges to reach the base of the most popular climbs. If summiting this peak, you will need an 80 m rope or two ropes for a required rappel off the east ridge of the peak.

Routes from Left to Right

5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 3
Au nom de la reforme
Sport, Alpine 9 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Au nom de la reforme
 3
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport, Alpine 9 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Pitch 2 on Au nom de la reforme.
[Hide Photo] Pitch 2 on Au nom de la reforme.