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Elevation: 3,134 ft 955 m
GPS: -19.31081, -43.61223
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 233 total · 8/month
Shared By: Jim Lawyer on Aug 9, 2022
Admins: Roberta Zouain, Matt Looby, Jim Lawyer

Description Suggest change

This is one of the cliffs you can see from town. There is a really tall rock tower that overhangs a deep chasm. Across the chasm is another, smaller tower that forms a bird beak when seen from town.

There is shady climbing regardless of the time of day, as you can climb on both sides of the canyon. The popular routes, like Amor Incondicional, have morning shade.

Unlike other areas, the base of the main tower is a narrow ledge, and feels crowded with just a couple parties; not a great place for large groups, or for "group hang-out" climbing. The ledge feels secure, but use care, as falling off this ledge would surely be fatal.

Getting There Suggest change

There are several ways. Having done all three, we preferred the following approach.

Park as for G1 and approach Vale de Blair as normal: through the quarry, up the metal ladder, and up the trail to the height of land. As you descend into the Vale de Blair canyon, look for trail on your left that cuts back through a smaller, narrow corridor. Proceed through this narrow corridor into another valley that parallels Vale de Blair; this is Papagaio valley, but is choked with boulders and vegetation. To navigate, go up the opposite side of the canyon onto slabs (cairns) and follow these up valley to join a path. The path forks; left leads around the bird beak tower, and the right leads downhill into the canyon. Once in the canyon, cross to the opposite side, then scramble up to a ledge below the steep, orange and yellow wall. This is the location of Amor Incondicional, among others.

New Trail 2023: Park as for G3. Follow the G3 trail through the opening gate, then in about 1 minute locate a trail on the right. Follow this trail up through a pasture to a fence. Turn left and follow the fence line which turns uphill, then to the right. Just before the trail reaches a concrete bunker-like shed, the trail goes left and becomes better defined, going steeply uphill. Enter some open rock slabs, then to an intersection at the top: go left for Serra Pelada, or right to Papagaio. From here the trail loops back, then up a rock step, then left to follow an open rock ridge. You can see the large face of Papagaio across a small valley. Descend into the valley, then up the other side to the main face.

3 Total Climbs

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