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Elevation: 10,092 ft 3,076 m
GPS: 40.30527, -105.52307
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 2,534 total · 72/month
Shared By: Chris Sheridan on Jun 24, 2022
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: Area Closure ended but timed entry permits are REQUIRED DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is an organizational subarea added to help consolidate sections of this one cliff under one subarea. There was originally 3 separate submissions for this crag: Lower Great Face, Wizard's Gate, and Castaway. To reduce confusion, they are now all under this one crag's submission. This section of rock should be carefully trod upon and below. There are enough alpine-like chunks of rock that at the minimum helmets should be worn, and milling about under this face should be considered with the same caution as many alpine rocks subject to freeze-thaw cycles.

To be edited in.

Getting There Suggest change

From Estes, drive south on CO Hwy 7 to the Lily Lake visitor center. Drive uphill and past this V.C. to the west and then quickly turn south on the road and follow brief switchbacks on gravel. Park near the end of the road. Best to have a guidebook with pictures (Kimball's, Rossiter's, or Gillett's). From here, there is a well marked trail that you start upon. I believe this continues to the summit of Twin Sister to the South. When the trail seems to be heading south, away from the crags, break off in a ENE direction. Head uphill through lightly forested slopes. When the trees clear, the challenge of figuring which rock is which comes next. This crag will likely still be somewhat left (North) of your exit from the forest. Hike/scramble/boulder hop to its base. This approach, to me, feels easier than the approach to the left (North) end of the Crags. Plan on 45-75 minutes to approach depending on your urgency.

Oh yeah, based upon the signage, this area may be open to hunters in the fall. Think bright.

Per Jonathan Siegrist: across CO Highway 7 from Lily Lake, just south of Estes Park, there is a dirt road that eventually dead ends. Park somewhere along the right side of this road. Follow the Twin Sisters Trail until the 3rd switchback, where you should continue straight (north-northeast) and look for a moderately well-traveled climber's trail. The trail winds through the forest and occasionally through small boulderfields until you reach the base of the Lower Great Face. Shoot for the protruding Central Buttress, and continue around to the north side.

Once you hike the trail correctly, you will find your way every time, but until you do, you may very well get lost. If all else fails, head uphill and towards the giant granite face. The hike is 30 minutes at a steady pace, knowing where you are going. It is 45 minutes at a normal pace.

9 Total Climbs

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Location: D. Right of Wizard's Gate Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Right of Wizard's Gate

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 8
Central Buttress/5.7 start
Trad 3 pitches
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 41
Not Wizard's Gate
Sport 3 pitches
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 12
Wild Raspberry
Trad 4 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
Closed Casket
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 9
Pyramid Scheme
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Central Buttress/5.7 start
 8
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Not Wizard's Gate
 41
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Sport 3 pitches
Wild Raspberry
 12
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Closed Casket
 8
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Pyramid Scheme
 9
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Right of Wizard's Gate »

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