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Elevation: 1,833 ft 559 m
GPS: 35.33705, -85.45063
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 31,328 total · 969/month
Shared By: Clara Leonard on Mar 14, 2022 · Updates
Admins: Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend

Description Suggest change

Woodcock Cove is near the small town of Dunlap in Sequatchie County, TN, approximately a one hour drive from Chattanooga and a two hour drive from Nashville and Knoxville. An impressive mile-long cliff offers continuous single-pitch sport and traditional climbs. The rock is on par with all of the classic crags of the Cumberland Plateau, while also offering a distinctly natural experience; the area is filled with wildlife habitats, forests, streams, and an impressive view of the Sequatchie Valley. Woodcock Cove features a freestanding sandstone pillar, along with massive dihedral walls, both of which are unique finds in the Southeastern climbing scene. Established routes range from 5.8 to 5.13, and there are extensive sections that offer excellent climbing at more moderate grades.

https://www.seclimbers.org/2021/04/30/woodcock-cove-blog/

https://www.seclimbers.org/project/woodcock-cove/

Getting There & Crag Beta Suggest change

Coordinates: 35°20'13.1"N 85°27'02.0"W

From Chattanooga: Follow US 127-N to Dunlap, TN. Turn left on Fredonia Road past the Sequatchie County Fairgrounds. Continue through twists and turns to the Fredonia Fire Hall, and turn left at that point onto Hobbstown Rd / John Henry Lewis Rd. Follow through the neighborhood until you see a marked parking lot to your right. This is the only place you should park. 

WORD OF WARNING: It is recommended you park in the top half of the parking lot if you have a 2-wheel drive vehicle. The bottom half of the parking lot is steep with loose gravel and is very difficult to make it out of without a 4-wheel drive vehicle.

  • This crag is open but is still under construction. We ask that you stay on established trails.
  • Do not park in undesignated areas. Carpool from the town of Dunlap
  • Do not leave behind permanent and semi-permanent webbing. Bolting with permission only - Contact the Southeastern Climbers Coalition for a permit.
  • Guiding, commercial operations, events, and group usage by permit only.

Donate to the SCC

Suggest change

If you like climbing here, consider donating to help the Southeastern Climber's Coalition pay off the loan that they used to purchase the land. DONATE HERE.

114 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

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Classic Climbing Routes at Woodcock Cove

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 22
Pruno
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 7
Believer
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 25
Smooch the Kooch
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 12
GILF
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 8
Best Western
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 21
Anonymouse
Sport
Zoo
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 11
Honky Red
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 5
Insurrection
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 36
Half Baked
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 10
Hokumpoke
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 18
Small Batch
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 5
Stop the Steal
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
Tahini Goddess
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 5
White Lightning
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 4
Train Wreck
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Pruno Distillery (AKA Still…
 22
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Believer Distillery (AKA Still…
 7
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Smooch the Kooch Distillery (AKA Still…
 25
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
GILF Betty White Buttress
 12
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Best Western Visitors Center
 8
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Anonymouse Zoo
 21
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Honky Red Mercantile
 11
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Insurrection Capitol Wall
 5
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Half Baked Dispensary
 36
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Hokumpoke Mercantile
 10
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Small Batch Distillery (AKA Still…
 18
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Stop the Steal Capitol Wall
 5
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Tahini Goddess Tofu Bloc
 5
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
White Lightning Distillery (AKA Still…
 5
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Train Wreck Dispensary
 4
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Woodcock Cove »

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