Monte Cristo Slab Rock Climbing
Elevation: | 3,588 ft | 1,094 m |
GPS: |
45.924, -121.66331 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 1,303 total · 34/month | |
Shared By: | Nate Ball on Mar 8, 2022 · Updates | |
Admins: | Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Description
The Monte Cristo Slabs (MCS) is a great sport climbing area near Portland and Southern Washington. The very low angle slab is extensive and good for family slab climbing. With routes mostly from 5.3 – 5.9, any casual or experienced climber can have a long day on a handful of three-star climbs. This area is well bolted across the entire face making for easy route finding and clean lines. On the south end of the slabs, the South Dome and Middle Landing offers the highest density of easy climbing. The northern “lobes” generally have steeper and harder routes but eases off turning into long and low angled climbing for the last 200-300ft. An often overgrown landing can be used to traverse the entire area, north to south, at the base of the granite. Although this area may not be what strong sport climbers are looking for, the quality of the rock and the style makes for a worthwhile day trip.
Most of the highly rated routes at MCS are usually climbed in one well-bolted pitch. Few can be top roped with a 60m so its best to have a 70m or trail a second rope just in case. There are nice second pitches in some areas but most ease off into really easy 5th. Rappelling each route is easiest but walk-offs south, next to My DNA or north, on low angle slab are both safe options.
Note: This area is very far and hard to access from major cities. Getting to MCS is a driving challenge in itself. Expect a lengthy drive through rocky, washed out forest roads. AWD and high clearance vehicles are highly recommended.
*Much of this information was referenced from the Monte Cristo Slab Portland Rock Climbs page and Northwest Oregon Rock by Tim Olson. Website and book contain more information about this area.
Getting There
From Parking Area: Take the north path or the main path on the north side of the parking area. Both paths start in the parking area but split within the first 50 feet. The main path turning right is steep but direct to easy climbing on the south end of the slabs. The north path is more moderate and leads to the northern lobes with harder climbs. An often overgrown landing can be used to traverse the entire area, north to south, at the base of the granite.
Driving Directions from White Salmon, WA and Portland, OR: Visit Monte Cristo Slab Portland Rock Climbs page for additional driving directions.
"Option #1 - Using SR141 (the best approach option):
Its best to access this site via the much better maintained roads starting at White Salmon, Washington. From WA State Route 14, drive north on SR141a (or SR141) for about 25 miles till you reach the tiny community of Trout Lake. At the 'Y' on the main SR141, go left through town on SR141 as it trends west for about 4 miles. Turn south onto gravel road NF86 road and drive south for 1.8 mile. This same mainline gravel road becomes NF8620 road. Drive this road west for 1 mile. At a road fork 'Y' drive west on Cave Creek Road (NF8631) for 3.9 miles. At the head of the valley this road quickly gains elevation till it reaches the pass and junctions at a road 'T' where it junctions with NF070 road. Go left (south) on NF070 road for a short distance of 1/2 mile. Turn right (SW) onto NF6610 road and drive for 1/2 mile. Turn left onto a narrow gravel road NF6610-030 and drive a very short distance (1/10 mile or 615'), then turn east (left) onto a very narrow gravel road NF717 and drive for .2 mile till you reach the parking area loop.
[From Portland] Option #2 - Using the high clearance AWD option on NF6610:
Note: the western portion of NF6610 gravel road (from NF66 onto NF6610) is rapidly becoming unsuitable for driving on (except with very high clearance vehicles). In 15+ years that segment may become difficult even for that kind of vehicle. This approach is described below for those who like adventure driving.
From Portland, Oregon go east on I-84 freeway, cross at Cascade Locks on Bridge of the Gods bridge. Go east on State Route 14 (past Dog Mtn trailhead). Turn north on Cook-Underwood Road (CR86) Drive 5.1 miles. Turn left (north) on Willard Road. Drive 2.1 miles (passing through Willard). Willard Road becomes Oklahoma Road at Willard. Just beyond Willard turn left onto NF66 road (South Prairie Rd). Drive north on paved road NF66 for 12.7 miles (becomes gravel). Drive east on gravel road NF6610 for 2.2 miles (this section of road presently requires AWD vehicle clearance). Turn right on NF6610-030 and drive 1/10 mile. Turn left on a narrow old logging grade for 2/10 mile. Park at a circular loop turnaround sizable enough to hold perhaps 7-9 cars. Driving time from east Portland is about 2 hours (about 1¾ hours if your really fast), or from Hood River its a quick 50-minute drive."
*Much of this information was referenced from the Monte Cristo Slab Portland Rock Climbs page and Northwest Oregon Rock by Tim Olson. Website and book contain more information about this area.
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