All Locations > Utah > Southeast Utah > Potash Rd > Long Canyon

Gin & Tectonics Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Gin & Tectonics

L › R R › L A › Z

	Alien's Head, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	ArcWidth, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Gin and Tectonics T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Head Stack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Nightwalker T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C1+
	Peccadillo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Squiggly Line, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Triple Abyss T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Two Plumb T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

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Elevation:	5,026 ft	1,532 m
GPS:	38.54809, -109.67149 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	2,604 total · 73/month
Shared By:	Colten Lay on Dec 9, 2021
Admins:	slim, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: Sheep Aware Details

Long canyon serves as important habitat for Utah's only endemic herd of Desert Bighorn Sheep. Please be respectful of wild sheep and other wildlife by maintaining a quiet atmosphere and keeping at least 100 meters from animals. Desert Bighorn Sheep are especially sensitive to disturbance between April 1st - June 15th when they are raising their young. Consider limiting your disturbance during this time period by climbing in other areas. You may notice water catchment systems in strategic locations to provide water for wildlife in Long canyon. One of these exists near the trail to Maverick Buttress.

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Description

South facing wall with plenty of sunshine that has 10-20 routes established. Perfect climbing temps from mid/late fall to mid/late spring.

Getting There

From the Potash Road, drive 1.13 miles up Long Canyon to a pull-out on the left. Park here and hike up the talus slope. The trail is marked with cairns, and If you loose the trail, stay left of the talus with the largest boulders and you'll be on route. Once you reach the wall, you'll see 'Headstack', the obvious splitter offwidth.

9 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Gin & Tectonics

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 13 ● Peccadillo Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 4 ● Head Stack Trad 3 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a 11 ● Gin and Tectonics Trad 3 pitches