PRINT: Rock Climbing in Upper Quarry Wall, Western Coastal Slope

Upper Quarry Wall

Connecticut > Western Coastal… > W Rock SP > S Buttress

Access Issue: Seasonal raptor closing on Ballfield Slabs. Details

Ballfield Slabs may be closed if raptor nesting is discovered in the area. Per CT-DEEP, the Ballfield slabs have historically been closed when there are nesting raptors in the area, typically May - August. Check raggedmtn.org/blog for information if there are current closures.

Description

Follow the spine up and around toni harp block to the left of the quarry walls. Veer left at the cliff face to find the graffiti. A small collection of moderate tr and trad climbs 70meter rope and nuanced static line setup or simple top belay (recommended). If you’re looking for really chill climbs in the sun overlooking New Haven and Long Island sound this is the spot.

Getting There

See description

Routes from Left to Right

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R 1 ● Mohawk Town Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R 1 ● 4 Stars out of 10 Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 3 ● Union Busting TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a 2 ● The Irishman TR

● Mohawk Town

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Trad

● 4 Stars out of 10

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad, TR

● Union Busting

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR

● The Irishman

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a TR

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Mohawk Town (yellow), 4 stars out of 10 (green), Union Busting (Blue), The Irishman (Magenta)

Upper quarry wall

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Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Morgan Patterson
NH

Ya, mohawk trail was what we used to scramble to the top. The rest seem like decent additions. Nov 29, 2021

Lyle M
New Haven, Ct

I’ll admit it’s a contrived line because at any point you can ping pong left and right to make it a 4th class scramble, but then your rope would get tied around the trees. If you stay in the corner there is real protection and a clean line for the rope to lead it and set up anchors for the other climbs vs the alternative climber trail scramble or walking up the red trail. Nov 29, 2021