The Promised Land Rock Climbing
Elevation: | 8,386 ft | 2,556 m |
GPS: |
37.57363, -106.31782 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 18,263 total · 476/month | |
Shared By: | Aaron Glasenapp on Oct 13, 2021 | |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
The Promised Land offers the best road-side craggin' in the San Luis Valley. With an approach that’s shorter than all the approaches in Rifle (you can belay from your car), free camping (you can belay from your tent), and over 60 routes from 5.6 to 5.13+ open projects, the Promised Land offers a very casual setting with an abundance of climbing to enjoy.
The rock is volcanic tuff, the same as nearby Penitente Canyon, but without the crowds. Tech-y, vertical climbing on crystals, nubbins, and pockets are common with some slabs, overhangs, and cracks thrown in for good measure. A set of draws will keep you busy, but since there's no hike, throw a rack in the car for the couple trad/mixed climbs. The majority of the routes are on the large main wall, but there are several smaller crags between 2 and 10 minutes hiking. The various walls are ordered Left to Right, and they are all marked on the map.
The warm, south-facing cliff is great in the fall and spring. Too hot in the summer and a bit too cold in the dead of winter, the best months for the Promised Land are October/November and March/April. Don't be afraid of a 35 degree day, as long as it sunny and not windy, the cliff will soak up the warmth, and you'll be climbing in a t-shirt. Be ready to build a fire (check fire restrictions first!) when the sun goes down and the temps drop for the night.
There are no bathroom facilities. Please pack out your trash and human waste, and practice Leave No Trace.
After your great day or weekend of climbing, be sure to stop at Three Barrel Brewing in Del Norte for the great pizza and beer. (check their hours... apparently they're closed on weekends?)
There are 2 guidebooks that include Promised Land:
- Bob Robertson's awesome and cheap ($12) pamphlet covering the Promised Land (and Manassa, which is NOT in the Penitente Book)
- Nate Liles' awesome new (2022) Penitente guidebook, for near comprehensive coverage of Promised Land and many other crags in the SLV.
Getting There
IMPORTANT: Google Maps does not provide the correct directions down the dirt roads! Use Apple Maps or Follow the directions below:
From Del Norte:
From Del Norte, drive ~6.5 miles SE on US Highway 160 towards Monte Vista. There is a brown sign for “Bureau of Land mgt. access - Old Spanish Trail & Limekiln”. Turn right onto this road, reset your odometer, and follow the mileages below for the Old Spanish Trail dirt road.
From Monte Vista:
From Monte Vista, drive ~7 miles on US Highway 160 towards Del Norte. There is a brown sign for “Bureau of Land mgt. access - Old Spanish Trail & Limekiln”. Turn left onto this road, reset your odometer, and follow the mileages below for the Old Spanish Trail dirt road.
Reset your odometer from the turn off the highway. From here to the cliff is all unmarked dirt roads. The condition of the road can vary, sometimes there are ruts, and there are some rough and rocky parts to be careful of. The higher the clearance your vehicle has, the better, but we have gotten small passenger cars back there with careful driving.
Mileage from Old Spanish Trail turnoff:
1.4 miles: turn left at the fork.
2.2 miles: continue straight (don’t take the right fork).
3.2 miles: turn left (the road will make another 90 degree right turn shortly after this left turn).
3.5 miles: stay straight (don’t take the right fork).
5.3 miles: beware a large rock that’s hard to see on the right side of the road. It’s on a downhill right turn. Avoid it to the left.
5.4 miles: go left at the fork.
5.5 miles: you’ll come to a large clearing. You basically drive straight (slightly right) through the clearing.
5.6 miles: both directions at this fork join up again. Take either one. The left side is narrow with large boulders and trees on both sides. The right side has some big rocks in the middle of the road at the fork, which look discouraging, but other than those, the right fork is the recommended path.
6.3 miles: You’ve arrived! You'll know it when you see it!
Per Nick Crews: there are 6.3 miles of unmarked dirt roads from the highway to the cliff. The condition of the road can vary, sometimes there are ruts, and there are some rough and rocky parts to be careful of. The higher the clearance your vehicle has, the better, but we have gotten small passenger cars back there with careful driving.
Guidebooks
There are 2 guidebooks that include Promised Land:
- Bob Robertson's awesome and cheap ($12) pamphlet covering the Promised Land (and Manassa, which is NOT in the Penitente Book)
- Nate Liles' awesome new (2022) Penitente guidebook, for near comprehensive coverage of Promised Land and many other crags in the SLV.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Promised Land
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