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Motown Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Motown

L › R R › L A › Z

	Anzac Biscuit T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Choss Whisperer, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Gift, The S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Michaelangemo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Mogolef S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Mogoright S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Scotty's Melons S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Whale If Yer Scared S,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Whale If Yer Scared Direct (Ahab Direct) S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

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Elevation:	156 ft	48 m
GPS:	37.87891, -122.61922 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	15,412 total · 409/month
Shared By:	Chris B on Oct 12, 2021 · Updates
Admins:	Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Motown is the first set of walls you hike by on the current approach to Emperor Boulder, the Choss 5 crags and Endless Bummer. The rock here tends to be higher quality than those closer to the coast, though routes still required extensive cleaning. Of the two main faces, the left features higher quality, more sustained movement on a vertical to slightly overhanging wall.

The cliff gets afternoon sun, so get here early if you don't want to get fried.

Getting There

Park as for Endless Bummer and the Emperor. Hike in along the ridge until you pass a large boulder on your right. Immediately after you pass the first boulder, look for a cairn on the right marking a trail that drops down off the ridge. Follow this trail down for 150 ft and you'll quickly reach the top of the cliff (marked by 3 old bolts on the top). The trail then curves around to the right past a couple switchbacks before turning to the left where you'll reach the base of the cliff. To prevent further erosion, please follow the switchbacks and don't take any shortcuts!

9 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Motown

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b 65 ● Whale If Yer Scared Sport, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 63 ● Mogoright Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 65 ● The Gift Sport, TR
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 64 ● Mogolef Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a 7 ● Whale If Yer Scared Direct (Ahab… Sport, TR
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 38 ● Scotty's Melons Sport, TR
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 20 ● Michaelangemo Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 50 ● The Choss Whisperer Sport