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Spirit Mountain

Montana > S Central Region > Beartooth Mountains

Description

Spirit Mountain is a beautiful peak located in the Beartooth Mountains of South-Central Montana. It is one of Montana's 27 ranked peaks which rise over 12,000 feet, coming in at number 17. A variety of moderate to difficult snow and ice climbs can be found on the North, East, and South sides of the peak from late fall to early summer. A couple of these routes, including the permanent snow fields leading up the South Face from Frosty Lake and the ones coming up from the Black Canyon Drainage between Spirit Mountain and Peak 12,115 (aka. Drop Off Mountain) can be climbed year round. The standard approach for Spirit Mountain is one of the shortest approaches to a 12,000 foot peak in the Beartooths when the Rock Creek Road is open.

"The incredible scenery of the area is due principally to the action of glaciation beginning about 1.6 million years ago which carved out the large glacial valleys from the immense high plateau of the Beartooth Uplift. In the process, several high, flat topped peaks which were not completely affected by the glaciation were left behind which dominate the summit views from Spirit Mountain.

The climbing potential on this peak is probably one of the best is the entire Beartooth Mountain range. The east face is one of the biggest mountain faces in the state of Montana and offers ambitious climbers plenty of first or second ascent potential. One feature in particular is the deep cleft bisecting the east face offering very steep snow/ice/mixed climbing in the spring and fall."

-Excerpt from lemkeclimbs.com/spirit-moun…

Getting There

Drive to the Glacier Lake Trailhead outside of Red Lodge, MT.

"This is one of the shortest approaches to any 12,000 foot peak in the Beartooth Mountains and the standard approach for Spirit Mountain. There are two variations for this approach based on which route you want to do. For the Standard South Ridge Route it's very easy. Simply hike the very well defined Glacier Lake Trail for 2 miles to Glacier Lake. This is a very popular day hike in the summer among families and fishermen.

For any other route on the peak except the North Face, use this variation which heads up to the Shelf and Moon Lakes basin. From the Rock Creek trailhead, begin up the steep switch-backing trail through an old burn area and reach a nice footbridge crossing Rock Creek after 0.6 mile at 9,080 feet. Cross the bridge and continue up the trail for eight more switchbacks and locate a side trail heading off to the right (north) at 9,230 feet, a quarter mile from the bridge. There may a cairn here to mark the turnoff but don't expect one. Follow this steep but well traveled boot path along the left (west) side of this side creek for 0.35 mile to where it crosses back to the east side of the creek on large boulders at 9,600 feet. Past this crossing the slope eases and the path continues through open grass above and on the right side of the creek. The trail can be hard to follow at times but follow it to a small tarn at 9,850 feet where it once again crosses the creek back to the west side. Continue up another couple hundred feet on open grass to Shelf Lake which makes an excellent place to camp or continue around the left (west) side of Shelf Lake and continue northwest over a large, broad grassy bench for 1.2 miles to the southwest corner of Moon Lake where you can also camp. It's about 3.2 miles from the Rock Creek Trailhead to Moon Lake with slightly over 1,500 feet of elevation gain."

-Excerpt from lemkeclimbs.com/spirit-moun…

Routes from Left to Right

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Steep Snow
 4
Lunar Arete
Trad, Snow, Alpine 12 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Lunar Arete
 4
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Steep Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine 12 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Spirit in late August
[Hide Photo] Spirit in late August