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Stanley Headwall (Rock) Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Stanley Headwall (Rock)

Gery's Wall 26

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Elevation:	5,995 ft	1,827 m
GPS:	51.19031, -116.05672 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	8,587 total · 186/month
Shared By:	Rhys Beaudry on Jul 27, 2021
Admins:	Dave Rone, Tom Jones, Richard Rose, Rhys Beaudry Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Originally an Ice/Mixed destination ( mountainproject.com/area/10…), Stanley Headwall is now home to a growing crag, a few multipitch lines, and almost unlimited potential for more. The massive rock face is a 300 m mostly vertical toe of Stanley Peak that runs NW/SE. The rock is absolutely immaculate; climbing is very technical/balancey.

The wall faces NE; it only gets sun in the morning. The crag is in a dip in the scree which offers limited protection from the wind; plan on having great climbing conditions, and cold-ish belays. There is a creek/waterfall less than 50 m from the crag; as you might expect, this means there will be rock fall from snow melt in early season (the glacier is up the valley).

Getting There

From the Trans-Canada, head South on the Radium Highway (93 South) and park at Stanley Glacier Trail. Take the well worn/maintained trail up following a couple of giant switch backs before generally contouring the creek once you have broken into the valley. Continue up the trail until there is a branch for a low-line trail with a sign indicating that the low-line is not the trail - take this. Contour across the scree, generally arcing to the right towards the drainage from the main waterfall - the crag is in the dip in the scree ~50 m to the right of the waterfall. If you aim for the erratic boulder and then head towards the drainage you should be able to locate cairns that mark the final approach trail.

You can also use the two arches on the face as land marks. The crag is left of both of the arches.

Budget an hour for the approach; it is long, but casual.

26 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Stanley Headwall (Rock)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 8 ● Out for Blood Sport Gery's Wall
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 4 ● Livin' in Paradise Sport 5 pitches Gery's Wall
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 5 ● Clockwork Orange Sport Gery's Wall
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 8 ● Vielfrass Sport Gery's Wall
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 4 ● Element of Crime Sport Gery's Wall
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c 5 ● Get Yourself Connected Sport Gery's Wall