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The Crag Next Door Climbing
| Elevation: | 251 ft | 77 m |
| GPS: |
43.33804, -79.86583 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 5,340 total · 115/month | |
| Shared By: | Danny Plonka on Jul 8, 2021 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Dave Rone, Scott Graham |
Description
Bouldering
A Plentiful new boulder field below a nice cliff. Found and started the establishing process by Tom and Ben Piche and Danny Plonka
Crag Next Door Bouldering Guide (updated Nov 2021) - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ncJ-WYBsgwjqmxRyoKnBMZUMmYlntKWh/view
Sport and Trad
This crag offers a south-east facing exposure that enjoys a balance of sun and shade from the surrounding trees. However, be prepared for a lot of bugs in the summer months! The walls are made of limestone that is relatively fresh and unpolished, as the area has been developed recently. The bolting is generally good, but some anchors may be questionable, but workable. Compared to Nemo, this crag is smaller and less crowded, with some quality routes to explore.
Getting There
Access to the Boulders and Cliff is the same as the boulders lay in the flatter area below the cliff they want to belong to.
You have two options for parking your car near the crag.
One is at City View Park, which is located at 2500 Kerns Rd, Burlington, ON L7P 1P8, Canada. This option will require a longer walk to the crag but offer more parking. Follow the Bruce Trail crossing Kearns Rd, trending left to stay near the cliff.
The other option is to park at the Bruce Trail access point on King Road, which is located at 1915–1921 King Rd, Waterdown, ON L8B 1W5, Canada (43.33795° N, 79.86583° W). This option will shorten your walk, but you'll have plenty of hikers parking near you too (two or three gravel parking spots and roadside parking). Follow the Bruce Trail trending right to stay near the cliff.
Once you are near the crag, look for one of 3 faint trails, with the outer two that leading to ropes/nylon slings that will help you with a small down climb to the base of the crag with access to the bouldering area as well. Their is all so a short V-shaped chimney that is easy to spot in the middle ish of the crag that is a good access as well.
Refer to directions in the Google Doc guide
Classic Climbing Routes at The Crag Next Door
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