Main Cliff Area Rock Climbing

Climbers have been searching for the next Main Cliff, in reference to Rumney's showpiece crag with a seemingly endless supply of routes. There have been rumors of a cliff like that existing in the hills of Waterville, but all efforts to find it were thwarted by gargantuan approaches and/or loose and scary rock. Little did we know, it was hiding right under our noses, literally in sight of the highway. Climbers are a myopic bunch, and it took the right group of people with the right amount of free time/boredom (thanks pandemic!) to realize the potential.

This Main Cliff has many of the same characteristics of Rumney's Main Cliff: it's a complex cliff, with ledges and terraces bisecting it, allowing routes of all different lengths and characters. The rock is orange schist or quartzite or whatever. It basically looks a lot like the more famous Main Cliff. This Main Cliff, however, has just been sparingly developed. Even so, it offers quality climbing from 5.7 to 5.13, all well-bolted with stainless glue-ins. Whether you're looking for punchy bouldery lines, or soaring exposed face routes, this is the place. A couple days here, and you might start saying that this, in fact, is the true Main Cliff, and that other cliff is just...so...over.