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Stenstugorna

International > Europe > Sweden > Kullaberg > S Coast
Warning Access Issue: Access to the north coast between Skårenäs to Blå Mal, and Djupadal to Valdemarsgrotten, is prohibited from March 1st to July 15th due to bird protection. DetailsDrop down

Description

South coast.

Stenstugorna (the stone cottages) is a small south-facing wall by the sea with two small caves. There are several trad routes from 5.5 to 5.11; the more difficult ones start in the caves. There are numerous options for building anchors, but the easiest is to sling the big block at top and extend to the lip.

Getting There

Park in large lot before the road ends at the light house. Follow path from lot south past designated camping area through forest, across wooden planks. Continue down hill through gate and turn right (west). Stenstugorna is the next wall toward the lighthouse from Åkersberget. Follow trail west another ~200 m. Either scramble down to base of the wall here, or continue ~50 m further then left to overlook. Rap from here, or scramble down either the west side (easier) or east side to the base.

Routes from Left to Right

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Stenstugorna. (L-R): Standardruten, Den Sorte Diedre, Direttissima, Östryggen, Show Biz, Polyteknisk Kravlegård.
[Hide Photo] Stenstugorna. (L-R): Standardruten, Den Sorte Diedre, Direttissima, Östryggen, Show Biz, Polyteknisk Kravlegård.
Heading down the yellow trail between the two gates. Åkersberget is the small hill in the center of the photo.
[Hide Photo] Heading down the yellow trail between the two gates. Åkersberget is the small hill in the center of the photo.
The start of the approach from the parking lot to Åkersberget and Stenstugorna.
[Hide Photo] The start of the approach from the parking lot to Åkersberget and Stenstugorna.
Stenstugorna and the lighthouse as viewed from the top of Åkersberget.
[Hide Photo] Stenstugorna and the lighthouse as viewed from the top of Åkersberget.
Looking down at the Stenstugorna cliff and the final portion of the approach.
[Hide Photo] Looking down at the Stenstugorna cliff and the final portion of the approach.
The first gate on the yellow trail at the end of the boardwalk.
[Hide Photo] The first gate on the yellow trail at the end of the boardwalk.
The yellow trail at the start of the wooden boardwalk about 200 meters from the parking lot.
[Hide Photo] The yellow trail at the start of the wooden boardwalk about 200 meters from the parking lot.