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Elevation: 1,458 ft 444 m
GPS: 43.99287, -71.65914
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 7,250 total · 149/month
Shared By: Lee Hansche on May 18, 2021
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall
Warning Access Issue: Merriam Woods is conservation land, managed by the Town of Woodstock. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The Ruin was given it's name for the evidence of an ancient climbing civilization that was discovered here. This cliff has certainly been climbed on. A few sings were left behind. A couple of bolt studs, a stuck nut, broken holds etc. There are many question marks as to exactly what was climbed and in what style but I would love answers to these questions so please post up or message me with names, of climbs or climbers, dates, etc. I love climbing history but I don't have a lot to go on yet.

Modern civilization has moved in with a nice collection of bolted routes from 5.7 to 5.11+/12- as well as unearthed a couple of trad climbs. Routes here range in style quite a bit from face climbing, to grooves, corners, slabs and more so there is bound to be something here for you.

Getting There Suggest change

If you are walking in along the stream trail that comes from the main Gate, after just under 10 minutes of strolling you will get to a notable crooked tree. Take a left and head toward the hillside. There are a some cairns and the majority of the way you will see yellow flagging on trees. This leads you up what we call Main Cliff Gully. At the base of the gully proper, Winter wall will be seen down to the right. Continue up the gully past Autumn Wall through some short switchbacks. As the trail touches the left side of the gully, exit the gully to the left through an obvious opening. Walk along a little trail for half a minute and you will see the cliff on your right. As of this writing the only modern routes are at the left end of the cliff but that will change as there is plenty of potential.

16 Total Climbs

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Location: The Ruin Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Ruin

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 40
● Nothing Ruined
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 48
● Beware the Grooove
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 31
● Love Always,
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 24
● Historical Friction
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 21
● Passive Voice
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 13
● Taming the Strange
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 12
● Lost City
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 10
● Tikal
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 9
● Sins of the Flesh
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 4
● Wild Sarsaparilla
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Nothing Ruined
 40
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● Beware the Grooove
 48
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
● Love Always,
 31
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Historical Friction
 24
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Passive Voice
 21
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● Taming the Strange
 13
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
● Lost City
 12
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Tikal
 10
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Sins of the Flesh
 9
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
● Wild Sarsaparilla
 4
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Ruin »

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Face of Ruin wall
Face of Ruin wall
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