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Dent du Géant Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Dent du Géant

L › R R › L A › Z

SW Face Normal Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

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Elevation:	12,795 ft	3,900 m
GPS:	45.86207, 6.95174 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	2,105 total · 46/month
Shared By:	S Perry on Apr 12, 2021 · Updates
Admins:	Bogdan Petre, David Riley, Luc-514 Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

A beautiful rock spire that overlooks the Glacier du Geant--the "Giant's Tooth"--is an impressive feature in an unbelievable setting. There are a number of routes that go up the feature, but the most classic is the "Normal Route" up the SW Face. This route ascends 5 or 6 (depending on how you split them up) pitches of beautiful face and crack climbing on good rock at a very accessible grade (short section of 5.9ish, mostly 5.7 and below). However, the route is marred by massive hemp ropes that ascend nearly the whole climb. The guides use these to (slowly) bring clients up in their high altitude mountaineering getup.

More beta (with pictures) can be found here: summitpost.org/dent-du-g-an….

Getting There

Since this climb is listed in MP as starting from Chamonix, you have three options to get to the dent:

1. Take the aiguille du midi lift up, then walk eastsoutheast across the glacier du geant, going around the gros rognon. The horizontal distance is 5.5km, no idea the vertical. One italian beta says this takes around 5hr one way with skins.

2. Take the aiguille du midi lift up, then take the Panoramic Montblanc cable car that runs between aiguille du midi and punta helbronner. From helbronner, walk northnortheast (passing the aiguille marbrees to your east) for 2.5km and 600m of elevation gain (around 2.5hrs at a good pace) until you arrive at "the gums" (le gengive).

3. Drive from Chamonix to Courmayeur in Italy via the montblanc tunnel. There, take the Skyway Montebianco lift up to punta helbronner.

Easiest to take the tram up from Courmayeur. Find the feature from the top of the tram and hike towards it. Eventually you'll hit a steeper snow slope with a crevasse to the climber's right. Avoid the crevasse and ascend the slope. At the top follow the ridge up mixed snow and rock scrambling (this is called the gums, or oe gengive). Continue along the ridge passing a large pinnacle (this is the gendarme - go around the east/right side of this feature). From here take the ridge to the base of the Dent.

The crevasse opens up throughout the day (as it gets sun for most of the day), so be aware of this on the way back down the steep snow slope.