Stardust
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> United Arab Emi…
> Ras Al Khaimah (RAK)
Description
The definitive guide to Stardust can be found here:
u.pcloud.link/publink/show?…, and reproduced here with permission from Ludmil Trenkov.
BRIEF HISTORY AND DEVELOPMENT
While Ras Al Khaima is an established UAE climbing destination, this particular wadi has been developed only since 2015. After the beloved Hatta Crag and Wave Wall became inaccessible, a group of climbers sought new sport climbing destinations within UAE. They discovered the towering wadi, in the area by mere accident. Its discovery coincided with the untimely passing of David Bowie. In his honor they called it Stardust.
There have been persistent efforts since, of setting new lines and creating more opportunities for great climbing. The former UAE Bolting Fund and individual donations have generously supported the route setting efforts.
RESPECT THE SETTING
This is a very serene and tranquil place. We have discussed our presence with the goat farm owner. He has no objections of us being there provided we preserve the ambiance. The only exception is the presence of dogs. They must be kept away from the farm animals, on leash or better be left at home. We hope we keep the wadi clean and joyous.
WEATHER AND THE ELEMENTS
Stardust is located in Ras Al Khaima approximately 0.5 km from the coast inland. As in all outdoor locations in UAE the optimum climbing season is from late September to mid-May. The comfortable camping season is October to March. Be aware that humidity is very unpredictable and might impact substantially the atmospheric experience.
The north wall goes in shade sometime at 10 – 11 AM or earlier in the winter. Some sectors and climbs orientation varies so there might be some differences of shady conditions from climb to climb before the whole wall is in shade. Although the rock dries up relatively fast, it might become more brittle after intense rain so it is good practice to wait a day before climbing.
Getting There
APPROACH
1. Drive from anywhere in UAE or Oman and take E11 to small local turn at 25.930735, 56.057935 (after the sign for RAK Maritime City)
2. Follow the asphalt road forward.
3. Turn right when you reach the T-junction.
4. Follow the road and turn at second left. Go forward passing between two houses at the end of the paved road and go into the open wadi 25.927978, 56.066873
5. After 3 km you will reach a goat farm on your right. Proceed forward as you keep to the right side of the wadi.
6. Approx. 100 m after the goat-farm you will see Sector 1 on your right.
7. Park anywhere you feel comfortable (be aware of falling rocks)
THE SETTING/LOCATION
Wadi Rahbeh [ الرحبة ], aka Stardust - after the goat farm, is approximately 30 m wide and 400 m long after the goat farm climbing area. Most families that leave at the entrance of the wadi are of the Rihab clan thus the local name for the wadi. There are rock walls on both sides with varied angles and breakages. The rock is limestone with varied levels of weathering.
Occasional and unpredictable rock falls might occur so please be alert around the whole climbing area. Wearing helmets is imperative. There are opportunities for hiking into the widening and meandering canyon upstream. An hours walk or so towards the big wall in front of the wadi has a natural spring cherished by locals. The wadi is part of the Stardust hike listed in some UAE hiking guides.
AMENITIES
At the end of 2018 Shaikh Saud (the ruler of Ras Al Khaima) decided to build facilities at the climbing area, upon the urging of the goat farm owner. In approximately one month, a group of stone masonsand craftsmen built a state-of-the-art facility for the benefit of the wadi visitors. They feature western style toilets, water tank, showers, interior lighting controlled by motion detectors and adjacent rest shed. There is currently limited cell phone reception in the area.
A Suggested Users' Guide for Stardust
Stardust currently stands as the most visited climbing crag in the UAE, which was exactly the intention of the UAE Bolting Fund:
To find a crag in the UAE that had potential for many routes, of many different grades, for the community to enjoy. We are glad
that we found it and we are thankful to the few who have put their time, energy, and money into developing Stardust into what it has become.
With this growing popularity, Stardust is also facing new challenges. It is our common and individual responsibility to mitigate these issues. If you come to Stardust to enjoy its magic, you are responsible for preserving the magic too.
This users’ guide is based on PRINCIPLES. “Principle: a fundamental truth or proposition that serves as the foundation for a system of belief or behavior or for a chain of reasoning.”
THE PRINCIPLES ARE: BE SAFE, BE KIND, BE RESPECTFUL.
These are not rules, but rather an appeal to each visitor to use their common sense, to learn about climbing safety, to adopt a respectful climbing and camping etiquette and to become positive members of the UAE climbing community.
BE SAFE
- Learn, practice and teach safe climbing techniques. You, your partner and all the climbers around you will benefit from it. If you don’t do it for you, do it for the rest of us. A severe accident at the crag will jeopardize the access to climbers to this area.
- Share positive recommendations for safety. If you see someone being unsafe, kindly suggest a safer way of doing things. If someone suggests a safer way to you, listen up and take mental notes. There are many right ways, try to find the safest.
- Life savers for Stardust:
- Wear a helmet (leaders, belayers, spectators). One of the leading causes for rock climbing fatalities is trauma to the head, which can be greatly mitigated by wearing a helmet, especially during a head-first fall or due to rock fall (which is common at this crag).
- Bring the right equipment. Make sure your rope is long enough and you have enough draws (some climbs at Stardust are longer than your usual 30m13 bolt sport route).
- Partner-check and self “double-check” before starting the climb, at anchor, and during lowering/rappel.
- Check weather forecasts. Have emergency numbers with you (they are included at the end of the topo), have an action plan, carry a first aid kit, and learn/update your first aid techniques.
- Learn/refresh rescue and self-rescue techniques for climbers, especially if you are venturing into the multi-pitch territory.
BE KIND
- Look around you. You are not alone at Stardust and each individual at the crag deserves to have a positive experience.
- Don’t hog routes. You may not be the only one working on that project. Communicate and share with others.
- Keep noise levels down during the day. Climbers and belayers need to clearly communicate commands to each other. If you like a soundtrack for your send, ask around if it is ok to have music at a low volume.
- Keep quiet hours at night. Climbers need to rest, locals and their goats need calm, and wildlife lives here. You are a guest to a public natural space, be a good guest.
- Share Stardust! Bring your friends and new climbers, just take it upon you to pass these principles along to them, so Startdust and the UAE climbing community keep on thriving.
BE RESPECTFUL
- Respect nature or go home. Bring your own firewood, avoid littering, and use the restrooms.
- Respect local residents. They have agreed to us developing their land for our recreational use and have even provided some infrastructure for our benefit and comfort. They deserve nothing but our utmost respect: Keep noise levels down, observe quiet hours at night, and avoid disturbing their goats (keep dogs on leash if they can’t help themselves). DO NOT turn Stardust into a “party campsite”. The owners of the land have opened their doors to climbers, in return we promised to respect the place. These doors can easily close if we betray that agreement.
- Respect infrastructure. Avoid pitching your tent in the gazebo/common area. Conserve water (short showers, effective dishwashing). Pack-out your own trash bags (the canister in place is only for small items, it is not meant for general garbage collection). Keep the bathrooms clean.
- Respect the developers’ vision. Check in with them before bolting. Use the crag for climbing and caving practice only. Stardust is not meant to be a campsite for large groups that just want to hang out (nothing wrong with that, this is just not the place).
- If you are profiting from courses at the crag, contributing in whatever way you can: Donating bolts or engaging in community service. Be part of good Karma.
Emergency Contacts
RAK Hospital Emergency Room: +971 7 222 5555
Saqr Hospital, Ras Al Khaima: +971 7 222 3666
Al Zahrawi Hospital, Ras Al Khaima: +971 7 228 8544/ +971 7 228 8141
Obeid Allah Hospital, Ras Al Khaima: +971 7 246 5501
National Ambulance: 800 436 7677
Mountain Rescue - Civil Defense - 997
Security - Police - 999/ 998
General - Fire Civil Defense -997
Animal Welfare - RAK Animal Welfare Center - +971 56 357 6029
Acknowledgements
Ludmil Trenkov
Khajag Nazarian
Oliver Schwesinger
Eric Claudel
Francesco Arneodo
Ivan Laskiv
Magdalena Martina Nowak
Rob Low
Theo Giani
Ioana Maris
Sergio Juarez
Alberto Michelotti
Federico Galbieri
Vlad D Mazure
Emily Winchip
Adam Powell