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Douglas State Forest Bouldering
| Elevation: | 644 ft | 196 m |
| GPS: |
42.03887, -71.79399 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 24,632 total · 494/month | |
| Shared By: | Trevor Mungeam on Mar 31, 2021 | |
| Admins: | Old Timer, jim.dangle, Joe M |
Description
The Douglas State Forest offers some good locations (and likely more undiscovered) areas for bouldering across its 5,500 acres. Climbing opportunities range from 5-30+ foot ledges and rock faces to intermittent glacial erratic boulders. In general the areas north of route 16 are short cliff bands whereas the climbing to the south and east presents itself in the form of glacial erratics. Most of the rock quality is quite good, albeit often featureless granite, so expect some bad slopers and tiny crimps.
(Stay tuned. Other areas within the state forest are under development as well.)
Leave this beautiful state forest the way you found it if you do so choose to climb here. PLEASE no graffiti or litter. Feel free to leave feedback!
Classics and personal top picks include:
Titanic V7 (Wallum Lake, Titanic)
Exodus V6 (Far North, Marsh Caves)
Paper Tiger 5.10b/V2 (Far North, Top Rope Walls)
Double Edged Sword V4 (Wallum Lake, Dagger)
Portmanteau V8/9 (Far North, Marsh Caves)
Operation Solitude V6/7 (Mine Brook, The Chunk)
Amazonia V1 (Schmidt, Amazonia)
Tipping Point V4 (Wallum Lake, Titanic)
Ed's Route Direct 5.9+ (Far North, Top Rope Walls)
The Button V1 (Wallum Lake, Ladder)
Needs a Mono V5 (Mine Brook, Squirrel Cave)
Convalescence 5.7 (Far North, Mark's Wall)
Diagon Alley V3 (Far North, Marsh Caves)
Terrarium V7 (Schmidt, Terrarium)
Squirrel Cave V3 (Mine Brook, Squirrel Cave)
Chutes and Ladders V1 (Wallum Lake, Ladder)
Peromyscus V2 (Mine Brook, Mouse Bluffs)
Getting There
The state forest is huge. There are a few distinct areas which will require parking in different spots.
For Wallum Lake, park in the main paved lot for Wallum Lake Park. From memorial day to labor day there is a parking fee. During winter, when the main lot is closed, parking by the boat ramp.
For the Far North, park in the dirt lot at the termination of Ridge Trail via Northwest Main Street.
For Mine Brook and Annese Bluffs, park in the gravel lot on the north side of Route 16 right by the sign entering Webster.
For the Streeter area, park at the Streeter Trail trailhead on Southwest Main Street. It should be the first main trailhead on the south (left) side of the road coming from the center of town and is just beyond the "Schmidt" trailhead (which is on the north).
For the Schmidt area park at a large lot along the southern side of Rt 16 about a mile west of the intersection of Cedar Street
Classic Climbing Routes at Douglas State Forest
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Photos
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