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Elevation: 1,349 ft 411 m
GPS: 29.80449, -101.44277
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 9,880 total · 190/month
Shared By: Douglas McDowell on Feb 13, 2021
Admins: mattm, Matt Richardson, Tommy Blackwell, Kathy Farmer, Vincent P, Jim Day, Joanie Mars
Warning Access Issue: Private Property DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Weir Dam is a collection of walls accessed by the ladder trail from the parking lot. The area is fully south facing and full sun all day. It's great for a chilly winter day or an early morning session. Retreat in the afternoon from the sun to the river as there is no real shade in this part of the canyon. Thin technical slab climbing is representative of the area (Mister Access 5.7 and Swamp Monkey 5.8), but there are incredible aretes (Tamahawk 5.11- and Sun Baked 5.11-), corners (The Prism 5.10-) and roofs (Internal Alchemy 5.12+, Planet Bob 5.12- and The Milky Way 5.11) as well. The area is accessed by a ladder than can be protected with a rope. Two anchors are available at the ladder for this purpose.

Getting There Suggest change

Thanks to the Access Fund there are now signs from the X that point to Weir Dam and the parking area. From the campground, exit as you came in and take the first right to the end of the road. Follow the obvious trail down to the ladder above Weir Dam. Two anchors are available to set up a rappel or to set up a fixed line down the ladder. A 40m rope on bunny ears makes it to the ground on a single strand. The ladder has unequal spacing on the rungs about halfway through the half above the platform. Below the platform the ladder is designed to pivot in the event of a major flood. Thread the fixed line through the platform and down the second ladder to protect the exit on the way back to the car. Follow the trail through the tall grass to the base of wire wall.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Weir Dam Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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