Glacier Peak Wilderness Climbing
Areas in Glacier Peak Wilderness
Addison Ridge
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Big Four Mountain
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Bonanza Peak
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Castle Rock
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Del Campo Peak
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Dome Peak
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Glacier Peak
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Gothic Peak
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Gunsight Range, The
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Itswoot Crag
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Martin Peak
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Monte Cristo Group
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Morning Star Peak
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Sloan Peak
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Sperry Peak
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Three Fingers
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Vesper Peak
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White Chuck Mountain
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Wilmans Peak Group
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Wolf Peak
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: | 5,933 ft | 1,808 m |
GPS: |
48.08421, -121.23859 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 81,865 total · 1,589/month | |
Shared By: | Daniel Chode Rider on Feb 12, 2021 | |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Description
While technically in the 'North Cascades,' the Glacier Peak Wilderness covers a larger area from slightly east of the Cascade Crest, south of the line following Highway 20 and the Suiattle River, and north of Highway 2. This region is separate from the North Cascades National Park and surrounding areas as detailed in the 'North Cascades' sub-area of Washington's Northwest Region.
This part of the Cascade Range is one of the most remote regions in the lower 48. Smaller regions like the Pickets, the Bacon Peak area and the Chilliwack Range get more publicity for being horrendously bushy and inaccessible - but Glacier Peak Wilderness is a much larger plot of land that has zero roads and few trails. However, it lacks the ultradramatic rings of peaks that the Pickets have, and if anyone knows of a mountain offhand in this wilderness it is its namesake, the volcano Glacier Peak. 'Blue-collar alpinism' is often prevalent on lesser peaks; rocks like Wilmons Spire, Monte Cristo Peak, Addison Ridge, etc, are not quite as dramatic, tall, or well-known as the Boston Basin peaks, Washington Pass, or Mount Shuksan, but are climbed occasionally all the same, often when weather or crowds prohibit access to the taller, northernly neighbors. It doesn't help that visible and well-known peaks like Mount Index, Mount Baring, or Gunn Peak are rightly classed within the Skykomish Valley area. This sub-area is for the hard-to-access alpine peaks that don't quite reach the status of those worthy of a national park.
Detailed borders: All of Glacier Peak, Wild Sky and Henry M. Jackson Wilderness is included, besides these exceptions: the Entiat River region, directly along the Skykomish or Miller Rivers (or the rest of Highway 2), and anything north of the Cascade - Stehekin River line.
This part of the Cascade Range is one of the most remote regions in the lower 48. Smaller regions like the Pickets, the Bacon Peak area and the Chilliwack Range get more publicity for being horrendously bushy and inaccessible - but Glacier Peak Wilderness is a much larger plot of land that has zero roads and few trails. However, it lacks the ultradramatic rings of peaks that the Pickets have, and if anyone knows of a mountain offhand in this wilderness it is its namesake, the volcano Glacier Peak. 'Blue-collar alpinism' is often prevalent on lesser peaks; rocks like Wilmons Spire, Monte Cristo Peak, Addison Ridge, etc, are not quite as dramatic, tall, or well-known as the Boston Basin peaks, Washington Pass, or Mount Shuksan, but are climbed occasionally all the same, often when weather or crowds prohibit access to the taller, northernly neighbors. It doesn't help that visible and well-known peaks like Mount Index, Mount Baring, or Gunn Peak are rightly classed within the Skykomish Valley area. This sub-area is for the hard-to-access alpine peaks that don't quite reach the status of those worthy of a national park.
Detailed borders: All of Glacier Peak, Wild Sky and Henry M. Jackson Wilderness is included, besides these exceptions: the Entiat River region, directly along the Skykomish or Miller Rivers (or the rest of Highway 2), and anything north of the Cascade - Stehekin River line.
Classic Climbing Routes at Glacier Peak Wilderness
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Route Name | Location | Star Rating | Difficulty | Date |
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● Gerdine Ridge/Cool Glacier | Glacier Peak |
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Easy Snow Snow | |
● Corkscrew Route | Sloan Peak |
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3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Easy Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine | |
● Frostbite Ridge | Glacier Peak |
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4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI1-2 Steep Snow Ice, Snow | |
● Dome Glacier | Dome Peak |
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4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine | |
● South Face | Del Campo Peak |
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4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b PG13 Trad, Alpine 2 pitches | |
● East Wilmans Spire | Wilmans Peak Group > Wilmans Spires |
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5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine 3 pitches | |
● Ragged Edge | Vesper Peak |
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5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 6 pitches | |
● South Ridge | Gunsight Range > S Peak |
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5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 3 pitches | |
● True Grit | Vesper Peak |
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5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 5 pitches | |
● Mile High Club | Morning Star Peak |
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5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, Alpine 7 pitches | |
● Fish & Whistle | Vesper Peak |
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5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 5 pitches | |
● Beyond Redlining | Morning Star Peak |
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5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport, Alpine 11 pitches | |
● East Face | Gunsight Range > Middle Peak |
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5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Alpine 7 pitches | |
● Fire on the Mountain | Sloan Peak |
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5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Alpine 8 pitches | |
● West Face | Gunsight Range > N Peak |
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5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, Alpine 5 pitches |
Weather Averages
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All Photos Within Glacier Peak Wilderness
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