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Vagmarken Hill - West Face

California > Joshua Tree NP > Quail Springs Area > Vagmarken Hill
Warning Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

The left side of the hill hosts the (a) The Intimidator Rocks, where you'll find a couple of short bolted routes - Just Stop It (5.10b) and Bold Is A Four Letter Word (5.10a). 

Right of this is a large section of rock with (b) Vagmarken Buttress Left (5.7), the original route on the hillside and an enjoyable route at the grade.

 Still further right is (c) Vagmarken Buttress Right with two distinct white dikes - James Brown's Celebrity Hot Tub Party (5.10b) worth doing if only for the name and the Right-Handed Dyke (5.10a).

Near the right margin of the hillside is (f) The Place Where Sheep Sleep, which has several good sport routes including Were Sheep Here First (5.10d) and Where Sheep Sleep (5.12a).

Finally, there is (g) The Ranch a newer crag near the south end of the hillside

The mainly west-facing aspect of the hillside makes this a good place to find shade in the morning and some sun in the afternoon, although it is fully exposed to the occasional winds. Whether heading in or out of the Park, the short approach times make this an area to check out and enjoy.

Getting There

This is the large rocky hillside 4.9 miles from the Park entrance on the left (east) side of the road. Alternately, it lies 4.0 miles from Hidden Valley Campground if coming from that direction.

 Several pullouts exist along the road - find the one closest to the portion of the hillside you'll be visiting to cut down on the approach time.

Trails lead across the desert to the base of the hillside, but once on the hillside proper you'll be travelling over rough terrain with the possibility of some scrambling. Approach times vary from 5 to 15 minutes typically.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Liz contemplating the options for holds.
[Hide Photo] Liz contemplating the options for holds.
Lisa Barnes happy to be on the Horse again at JT
[Hide Photo] Lisa Barnes happy to be on the Horse again at JT
Donno on The Gear Thief (5.6). Photo: Olin.
[Hide Photo] Donno on The Gear Thief (5.6). Photo: Olin.