Vagmarken Hill - West Face Rock Climbing
Elevation: | 4,117 ft | 1,255 m |
GPS: |
34.05116, -116.20347 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 13,089 total · 272/month | |
Shared By: | C Miller on Feb 1, 2021 | |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Mike Morley, C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Gunkswest |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
The left side of the hill hosts the (a) The Intimidator Rocks, where you'll find a couple of short bolted routes - Just Stop It (5.10b) and Bold Is A Four Letter Word (5.10a).
Right of this is a large section of rock with (b) Vagmarken Buttress Left (5.7), the original route on the hillside and an enjoyable route at the grade.
Still further right is (c) Vagmarken Buttress Right with two distinct white dikes - James Brown's Celebrity Hot Tub Party (5.10b) worth doing if only for the name and the Right-Handed Dyke (5.10a).
Near the right margin of the hillside is (f) The Place Where Sheep Sleep, which has several good sport routes including Were Sheep Here First (5.10d) and Where Sheep Sleep (5.12a).
Finally, there is (g) The Ranch a newer crag near the south end of the hillside
The mainly west-facing aspect of the hillside makes this a good place to find shade in the morning and some sun in the afternoon, although it is fully exposed to the occasional winds. Whether heading in or out of the Park, the short approach times make this an area to check out and enjoy.
Getting There
This is the large rocky hillside 4.9 miles from the Park entrance on the left (east) side of the road. Alternately, it lies 4.0 miles from Hidden Valley Campground if coming from that direction.
Several pullouts exist along the road - find the one closest to the portion of the hillside you'll be visiting to cut down on the approach time.
Trails lead across the desert to the base of the hillside, but once on the hillside proper you'll be travelling over rough terrain with the possibility of some scrambling. Approach times vary from 5 to 15 minutes typically.
Classic Climbing Routes at Vagmarken Hill - West Face
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