Highly featured, compact rock. Climbing is generally thin, technical, and slightly overhanging interspersed with good rests. Several lines start off a tree'd ledge (walk until you find the fixed line). This sector gets filtered morning sun. The upper wall can be absolutely scorching while the incredibly sharp rock at the bottom is ice cold.
Stick clipping is highly recommended as you have to pass a short band of low quality rock which guards a superb headwall. Stick clipping required for "Little Luc".
Currently one open project: "Big Lue", bolted in honour of the late Lucas Chabot. Look for the fixed chain that leads up to a bolted belay stance on the far right of the wall (towards The Overhang). ~20 m, 10 bolts. A couple of nasty boulder problems and very sustained thin climbing after. 5.13-.14 range.
From the parking lot, head up the trail on the East/North side of the creek. Take the well worn trail, branching left (signed) on a well worn trail that cuts a side slope before dropping back to the creek. Cross the creek just before it enters the canyon and pick up the trail on the other side. It will deposit you at The Overhang.
From The Overhang, head left, up the hill (South-ish) ~50 M.