Folly River Ice Crag Climbing
Elevation: | 367 ft | 112 m |
GPS: |
45.49609, -63.52739 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 6,508 total · 121/month | |
Shared By: | Matthew Peck on Dec 2, 2020 | |
Admins: | Will Bland, Greg Hughes |
Description
So Much Ice! One of the highest concentrations of easy/moderate ice in NS, this crag is located on the picturesque Folly River. Most of the climbs here are shorter, in the 15m range, but with so many close together, and the consistent/sheltered nature of the weather here, Ice is often appealing here when the weather sends you scurrying indoors elsewhere.
The initial ice climbing in this area was done at the Schoolroom, a crag about 600m to the south of the main crag. The schoolroom has quite a bit of easy ice in the WI2+ range, and a few steeper lines, but where all the climbs are on the East side, the river needs to be properly frozen to permit access.
The Upper Pools was defined in 2013-14 after some further exploration, and has hosted one of the recent NS Ice Festivals. This area is a bit remote as is normal for NS climbing areas, but it's central location in the province and short approach from the highway make it quite popular for a chill day out. It's not uncommon to run into other parties and (gasp) even have a line for some of the more popular climbs on a nice weekend these days.
A Tyrolean Traverse line exists for crossing the river in open conditions, but as with any fixed line, it should be treated with suspicion. Its also not a good idea to use it if you don't have a good method for progress capture and escaping the line, it can be a pumpy, uncomfortable experience. There is a large log across the river at the North end of the crag as of 2020 spring that will grant access to the East side for beginner leaders in most conditions.
Getting There
Schoolroom. Head East following the RR tracks, mindful of any train as they come on fast. The tracks will turn north and when they straighten out, head downhill to the East and you will reach the Crag.
Upper Pools.
Continue North for another km or so on Route 4, keeping an eye out for the white "Keep right except to pass" signs. At the second sign look for a pullout on the right, it should be right after a section of guardrail. GPS 45.4958173, -63.5345186 . Don't block the road as it's used for private access. Park on the side of the road and head in the pullout, bearing left at the first turn, and then immediately turn right at the clearcut, heading downhill on a faint trail towards a small copse of trees. Go through the copse and exit at the SE corner by the RR tracks. cross here and keep heading downhill, looking for orange flagging tape if it's still there. This will take you straight to the top of Two Stepper.
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