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Dike Wall

Maine > a. Western Moun… > Bald Bluff
Warning Access Issue: Peregrine Falcons in Maine DetailsDrop down

Description

This is the premier wall at Bald Bluff. 100+ feet tall and 300 feet long this wall is a stunner. Vertical to gently overhung, this wall has fantastic climbing from 5.10 to 5.12. The Dike Wall has some of the most interesting features to climb in Western Maine. Large and small chunks of basalt were left sticking out of the wall as the dike eroded leaving some truly amazing square-cut holds to grab. "Welcome to Greenwood City" and "Spikes & Twine" are the best ways to climb these features. 

 

Getting There

Parts of the base of the Dike Wall run steeply uphill and are not very accessible. Thus the routes are accessed at three different points (Lower Dike, Middle Dike, Upper Dike). Although you can scramble up the actual dike, it is not recommended. Loose blocks abound and can create a serious hazard for both you and other climbers. 

Lower Dike - From the end of the approach trail, walk underneath the overhangs of the Bastard Wall leftwards to the very bottom of the dike. This is the belay spot for both "Spikes & Twine" and "Welcome to Greenwood City". 

Middle Dike - From the end of the approach trail, follow the trail steeply uphill past several interesting caves to where the gully peters out. From here take a left and follow the obvious footpath to the base of the cliff.

Upper Dike - From the end of the approach trail, follow the trail steeply uphill past several interesting caves to where the gully peters out. From there follow a trail uphill and to the right of a short outcrop then back left across the top of the outcrop to the cliff. 

Routes from Left to Right

5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 3
Spikes & Twine
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 1
City Link
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 22
Welcome to Greenwood City
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 14
Phallix Handhold
Sport
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 1
Phallix Extension
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 3
Wet Market
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 6
The Pangolin
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 2
Lust for Life
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 2
Super-Spreader
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 6
Mystery Meat
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 1
Covid Haircut
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 2
Millinocket Wedding
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 1
First Born
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 2
Second Born
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Spikes & Twine
 3
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
City Link
 1
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Welcome to Greenwood City
 22
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Phallix Handhold
 14
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Phallix Extension
 1
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport
Wet Market
 3
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
The Pangolin
 6
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Lust for Life
 2
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Super-Spreader
 2
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Mystery Meat
 6
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Covid Haircut
 1
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Millinocket Wedding
 2
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
First Born
 1
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Second Born
 2
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Chris Cook on Millinocket Wedding
[Hide Photo] Chris Cook on Millinocket Wedding
Dike Wall - Middle
[Hide Photo] Dike Wall - Middle
Dike Wall - Middle
[Hide Photo] Dike Wall - Middle
Pokey Amory on Super-Spreader
[Hide Photo] Pokey Amory on Super-Spreader
Dhane Knakkergaard on Spikes & Twine
[Hide Photo] Dhane Knakkergaard on Spikes & Twine
John Nicolodi on Welcome to Greenwood City
[Hide Photo] John Nicolodi on Welcome to Greenwood City
Maura Fay getting into the crux of Second Born at Bald Bluff
[Hide Photo] Maura Fay getting into the crux of Second Born at Bald Bluff
Maura Fay navigating the incredible features on "Welcome to Greenwood City"
[Hide Photo] Maura Fay navigating the incredible features on "Welcome to Greenwood City"

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] between greenwood city and wet market is a new ray rice/tom bowker route. i think they were saying 10a or b? May 15, 2021