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Bald Bluff Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Bald Bluff

Bald Bluff Bouldering 48

Bastard Wall 6

Dike Wall 14

Ladybug Wall 6

South Wall 5

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Elevation:	983 ft	300 m
GPS:	44.33766, -70.67036 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	25,968 total · 468/month
Shared By:	Mike Veazey on Oct 16, 2020
Admins:	Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall, Chris Duca Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Peregrine Falcons in Maine Details

Maine Peregrine Falcons breeding season extends from mid-March through July or August. Hiking or climbing near nesting peregrines can cause abandonment and death of eggs/young. If adults are away from the nest, eggs or young can become overheated, chilled, or chicks can miss feedings. Be on the lookout for agitated falcons that may vocalize, take avoidance flights, or dive-bomb those that are too close. If you encounter an aggressive peregrine falcon please immediately leave the area, and report incidents to Erynn Call, State Raptor Specialist, MDIFW, erynn.call@maine.gov.

To learn more about peregrines in Maine, check out this link: maine.gov/ifw/fish-wildlife…

Description

March 2025 - Currently the landowners are logging in the approach area. Please see the 3/14/25 Comment for more details.R. Hall, Admin

Fantastic sport climbing crag with a 5 minute approach and some pretty spectacular features. At the Bluff you will find everything from short, steep and thuggy climbs to epic 30 meter enduro vertical face climbs. There are even some really nice bouldering caves for those not planning on roping up! There are three main walls here, each with it's own unique style of climbing. The main face here being the "Dike Wall", a striking vertical face that forms the left side of a giant eroded basalt dike. Here you'll find some incredible features. Square-cut chunks of basalt still liter the lower section of the wall providing some of the most unique features to climb on in Western Maine. The South Wall is reminiscent of the climbing and rock type at nearby Shagg Crag. Expect big moves and hard pulls on some truly fun features. The Bastard Wall provides a number of short, bouldery routes for those looking for something a little less epic. Be warned, several of the belays are near significant drop-offs. This is not a good place to bring young children. Bring a 60 meter rope (or longer) if you plan on climbing at the South Wall or Dike Wall.

Getting There

Bald Bluff is located near the small ski area of Mount Abram and just north of "Greenwood City". If you've ever driven through this quaint little hamlet, you'll quickly see the irony here. Once a bustling mill town, the village was destroyed by fire in the 1800s and never recovered. Regardless, it's a beautiful area and not hard to get to. 55 Miles from Portland Maine and 160 miles from Boston.

From the South, take Route 26 to Norway. Turn onto Route 118 and follow it 3.5 miles to Greenwood Road. Turn right on Greenwood Road and follow it 8 miles to a small pull-out on the right just before a guardrail.

From the North, take Route 26 to Locke Mills. Turn south onto Howe Hill Road. Cross the river and take an immediate left onto Greenwood Road. Follow Greenwood road 5.1 miles to the small pull-out on the left just after a guardrail.

From the pull-off near the guard rail, follow a footpath into the woods for 100 yards to an open area. From here the trail heads uphill 200 yards to the base of the Bastard Wall. Go left along the base of the Bastard Wall to reach the Lower Dike Wall and the South Wall. Go right at the Bastard Wall and head steeply uphill to access the Middle and Upper Dike Wall. 5 Minutes from the road to the cliff.

79 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Bald Bluff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

V4 6B 4 ● Come one, Come all Boulder Bald Bluff Boul… > Cliffs > Oasis Roof
V7 7A+ 4 ● Lanura Boulder Bald Bluff Boul… > Cliffs > Oasis Roof
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 7 ● All Creatures Great and Small Sport Ladybug Wall
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 7 ● The Lady Bug Sport Ladybug Wall
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 6 ● Beetlejuice Sport Ladybug Wall
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 14 ● Phallix Handhold Sport Dike Wall
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 11 ● The Woodcock Sport Ladybug Wall
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 10 ● City Dweller Sport Bastard Wall
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 7 ● The Hibernaculum Sport Ladybug Wall
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 4 ● Schistaholic Sport Ladybug Wall
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 6 ● The Pangolin Sport Dike Wall
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 22 ● Welcome to Greenwood City Sport Dike Wall
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 6 ● Mystery Meat Sport Dike Wall
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 8 ● Dominatrix Sport S Wall