Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Middle Slab

Massachusetts > N Shore > Cape Ann > Dykes Pond (Glo… > N Side > Mt Ann

Description

Now that it is clean, this unassuming, previously lichen-covered slab has revealed some of the best routes outside Redrock on Cape Ann. There isn’t much by way of handholds, but the low angle and the featured rock keep the grades fairly moderate. If you are on the northshore and you like slabs, this is an excellent spot.

There are two bolts at the top that work as an anchor for all three climbs. You have to do little easy scramble up the backside to gain the top.

Getting There

This is between the Cracker Crag and the Lot Crag. Look for it a few hundred feet on your left coming from Cracker Crag and right after a path that goes up to Mount Ann and South Dome.

Routes from Left to Right

5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Cape Smear
TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
The Sum of All Smears
TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Smear Pressure
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cape Smear
 4
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
The Sum of All Smears
 3
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
Smear Pressure
 3
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b TR

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The Sum of All Smears climbs the center of the slab. If you look closely on the right, you can make out the the little ripples that form the starting holds that I used.
[Hide Photo] The Sum of All Smears climbs the center of the slab. If you look closely on the right, you can make out the the little ripples that form the starting holds that I used.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Really tough to grade these routes. If you are experienced with slabs, these grades might feel a little soft. Feedback is appreciated. Sep 6, 2020
Jamison Knowlton
Gloucester, MA
[Hide Comment] Was that you I saw out there cleaning this a few weeks back? I was out hiking with the family. If I had known it was the infamous Jim Dangle, I would have stopped to introduced myself. That slab has been dying to be cleaned, going to have to check it out. Sep 6, 2020
[Hide Comment] Yes indeed, Jamison— that must have been me and my friend. We had great time uncovering these cool routes. Give them a go, and tell me what you think! Sep 6, 2020
Jamison Knowlton
Gloucester, MA
[Hide Comment] Superb work, Jim! Got out on this slab last night. Didn’t get a chance to try the middle route but looks fun. This slab is even bigger than I thought it was under all that lichen. Sep 10, 2020