Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 1,896 ft 578 m
GPS: 37.31708, -80.79372
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 41,323 total · 690/month
Shared By: Parker Reed on Jun 5, 2020 · Updates
Admins: Shawn Heath, Aaron Parlier

Description Suggest change

Mill Creek is the truest definition of a hidden gem for the NRV climbing region (and maybe the best area around …). Once you arrive to this natural utopia not only will you be greeted with pristine surroundings (including a creek that could rival Cascades), amazing hand cut mountain biking trails, miles of hiking trails, flora and fauna to fit your wildest ecologist dreams, you'll also find magnificent boulders of all varieties!

In general the rock is very similar to the sandstone found at the Cascades bouldering field, with a relatively grainy feel in regards to the boulders closest to the creek. Once you start venturing up the hillsides the rock tends to have a tighter grain structure creating all kinds of amazing features from slopers to edges, and from pockets to pinches! Closer to the waterfall you'll find some boulders (Magrathea and Jolly Green Giant) which have a completely unique rock structure and make for some amazing climbing.

The land is partially owned by the Town of The Narrows, and then extends into Jefferson National Forest. Ralph Roberston (local legend) has hand cut several miles of great singletrack mountain biking on the land owned by the town. So even if you are not there to climb, the miles of trail for both MTBing and hiking within the unreal natural landscape will make you content beyond belief!

Come explore!

P.S. The collaborators of this page recognize that people have been climbing on these boulders and cliffs long before we arrived, and we want to make sure that it is known that we do not assume that anything is a bonafide FA and that all problem names are subject to change if anyone has gone before and named it something else. We tried our best to accumulate as much info as we can, such as “Clint’s Boulder”.

Here is also a sampler video showcasing all the different styles of bouldering at Mill Creek, sure to get your palms sweating! 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3M2aEGXBCkc

Getting There Suggest change

Mill Creek Nature Park (official name) is a 30 minute drive from Blacksburg VA on 460 West. It is 1 hour and 15 minutes from Roanoke VA.

History

Suggest change
The climbing in Mill Creek has stayed mostly under the radar over the years. In the early to mid 90s Ralph Robertson and his crew started to climb the cliffs on top of the creek near Sentinel Point and Pearis Mountain. Everything was either done on trad or toprope and the info for the names and grades has been lost with time. But if you manage to find Ralph he will unload tons of beta on how to get to these cliffs and what are the best spots. Bouldering happened in conjunction with the rope climbing, and many of the boulders are well known amongst the local climbers and users of the area. In the spring of 2020 however the boulders saw a new wave of development and the untapped potential of the bouldering exploded with problems being put up of all styles and of grades ranging from VB-V9 with several harder projects waiting to be done!

102 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Mill Creek Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Mill Creek

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0 4
 4
Kook
Boulder
V1 5
 7
Chicken of the Cave
Boulder
V1 5
 5
Let it Bloom
Boulder
V2 5+
 5
Useful Traverse Index (UTI)
Boulder
V2 5+
 5
Bridge to Terrablazia
Boulder
V2 5+
 4
Slap the Lip
Boulder
V2 5+
 6
Sex Wax
Boulder
V2 5+
 4
Milk Man
Boulder
V3 6A
 7
Chicken of the Sea
Boulder
V3 6A
 5
French Press
Boulder
V3 6A
 4
Facile Ascensus
Boulder
V4 6B
 8
Blue Room
Boulder
V6 7A
 4
Knuckles
Boulder
V8 7B
 4
Night Palace
Boulder
V9 7C
 6
Get Pitted
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Kook Beach > Wedge Boulder
 4
V0 4 Boulder
Chicken of the Cave Beach > Chicken Breast Boulder
 7
V1 5 Boulder
Let it Bloom Butternut Hill > Java Boulder
 5
V1 5 Boulder
Useful Traverse Index (UTI) Beach > Useful Bridge Boulder
 5
V2 5+ Boulder
Bridge to Terrablazia Beach > Useful Bridge Boulder
 5
V2 5+ Boulder
Slap the Lip Beach > Teahupo'o Boulder
 4
V2 5+ Boulder
Sex Wax Beach > Teahupo'o Boulder
 6
V2 5+ Boulder
Milk Man Beach > Wedge Boulder
 4
V2 5+ Boulder
Chicken of the Sea Beach > Chicken Breast Boulder
 7
V3 6A Boulder
French Press Butternut Hill > Java Boulder
 5
V3 6A Boulder
Facile Ascensus Beach > Wedge Boulder
 4
V3 6A Boulder
Blue Room Beach > Teahupo'o Boulder
 8
V4 6B Boulder
Knuckles Genesis > Sega Roof Boulder
 4
V6 7A Boulder
Night Palace Beach > Teahupo'o Boulder
 4
V8 7B Boulder
Get Pitted Beach > Teahupo'o Boulder
 6
V9 7C Boulder
More Classic Climbs in Mill Creek »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

6,000 characters
loading