Icefall Brook Climbing

Icefall brook is home to some of Canada's largest waterfalls, cascading down the steep valley walls up to and more than 500 meters high.  In the winter time, this is an ice climbers paradise, containing over 25 routes as of 2020, but yet is seldom visited due to the logistics/money just getting there. If you are thinking about planning a trip, spend no less than a week in the cirque (better yet 2) to make the most of your resources getting into the zone and you will be greatly rewarded with some world class ice in a world class setting.

Most people plan a trip in the last half of February, and the first half of March.  The cirque is at a low elevation, and the south facing walls can receive a lot of solar radiation thus you want to be in there before the melt cycles start.  Once the real melt cycles start, the big rig climbs would be pretty scary to climb, where as the smaller, single pitch routes can be climbed well into April I would have to guess, but not the reason to go in IMHO.  Around the 5th of March, Basecamp receives about 5 hours of sunlight (~11:30am~3:30pm), thus heading into the cirque before then would make for a pretty cold endeavor.

Skis or snowshoes are almost mandatory, as well as a stocked basecamp tent(s), a Mr. Buddy propane heater and plenty of extras of your choice make the time winter camping as pleasant as possible.  Plan a basecamp in the only protected zone of the cirque, low down in the trees where you can also walk a short distance to open water (bring a collapsible jug) to keep you from burning up all the gas.  

Edit 2023/24 season, their is a Hut now to stay in.  Please see the link below for beta for the Kirwan Hut

https://www.icefall.ca/accommodation/satellite-huts

Two google resources as well:

Planet Mountain

Gripped