Ohio
> Central Ohio
> Marne Rd
Access Issue: Private Property
Details
The right (east) side, all roped climbing, is owned by Village of Hanover, which seems ambivalent to climbing. Left side, bouldering, is private property, but the owner has not had a problem with climbing SO FAR. Continued access is far from guaranteed! Rapidly growing crag traffic has become a potential issue.
On the bouldering (west) side, please do not hang out up top or go exploring above the main cliff line. It is private property and we need to keep a low profile. The owner has been hands off so far. Let's try to ensure things stay that way please. Hanging out up top could cause problems with the property owner.
Please do not climb above the roped climbs. Hanging out on the edge of the cliff without ropes is dangerous and the last thing we want is to have an ambulance/injury/fatality there. Please don't endanger crag access through short-sighted behavior!
Please be upstanders and take good care of the crag to help preserve access. Don't leave your trash, and even pack out any trash somebody else might have left behind.
Just cause we call it the Warmup Wall doesn't mean they are all easy! This has a range of moderate climbs and has a lot of highly featured rock, although it can be a bit crumbly in places too, so beware. Oh, and then there are a few places where the rock is suddenly quite blank, always, it seems, just as you are trying to pull over a bulge!
On the anchors of every route there are a pair of mussy hooks. Very important: only use the hooks to lower the LAST climber in your party. Please do NOT climb on top rope through the hooks. If more than one person is climbing the route, always clip your rope through your own quickdraws to the anchors. Then, once everybody in your party has climbed the route, the last climber simply needs to clip the rope through the hooks, remove your draws, and be lowered. (Anchor cleaning and rappelling is not best practice and is much more likely to lead to an accident.)
These routes are of medium height, about 30 or so feet. Nothing extraordinarily amazing, but good solid fun!
Most of these routes dry out pretty quickly after rain. They might have a wet pocket or ledge after a rain, but are otherwise pretty consistently dry year round.
As you enter by the main access trail, this is the area you will come to immediately as you enter. You'll see an obvious huge and usually wet and mossy chimney in the middle, with a handful of sport routes on either side, plus one fun trad route (even if there are bolts within arms' reach on either side!).
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Not quite ready to take on the Cave in a Day challenge? Try this one instead. Climb all 11 sport routes on the Warm-up Wall (you can neglect the one trad route...). Try to send them all in one session and see how fast you can do it. Good fun!
My son Elliot and I set the initial bar yesterday at exactly 3 hours. Think you can beat us? Step up! We'll definitely be back to improve on our own time. Oh, and bonus points for parent + kid teams, haha.
Get after it! Nov 25, 2024