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Mary's Lake ice Climbing
Routes in Mary's Lake ice
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Cool White Stare WI4 |
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Dirty Blonde WI4+ |
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Rabbit Stew WI3 R |
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Thunderbolt and Lightfoot. WI5 PG13 |
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| Elevation: | 9,079 ft | 2,767 m |
| GPS: |
39.25176, -111.32915 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 3,392 total · 58/month | |
| Shared By: | Brian in SLC on Feb 12, 2020 | |
| Admins: | Aeon Aki, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
Access Issue: Don't climb on wet rock!
Details
Attention:
Don't climb on wet rock! Sandstone is a porous rock type that can absorb a lot of water. It can lose up to 75% of its strength while wet, making it easy to snap off holds and irreparably damage classic climbs. Wait 48 to 72hrs after precipitation. If the ground is still damp then the rock is still wet. A great way to check for precipitation history before traveling to Joe's is to go to this site-
climate.usu.edu/mchd/dashbo…
and under "Data Charts" click the "Precipitation" tab. Make sure the surface wetness is 0 before climbing.
Don't climb on wet rock! Sandstone is a porous rock type that can absorb a lot of water. It can lose up to 75% of its strength while wet, making it easy to snap off holds and irreparably damage classic climbs. Wait 48 to 72hrs after precipitation. If the ground is still damp then the rock is still wet. A great way to check for precipitation history before traveling to Joe's is to go to this site-
climate.usu.edu/mchd/dashbo…
and under "Data Charts" click the "Precipitation" tab. Make sure the surface wetness is 0 before climbing.
Description
Mary's Lake is a location with reasonably reliable early season ice.
With binoculars, the ice should be visible from the near side of Joe's Valley Reservoir.
A number of fun routes exist, the most well formed seem to the the cluster to the right in a shallow pocket.
With binoculars, the ice should be visible from the near side of Joe's Valley Reservoir.
A number of fun routes exist, the most well formed seem to the the cluster to the right in a shallow pocket.
Getting There
In early season, or, low snowpack, one can drive to near Mary's Lake. The ice climbs are west of the lake on the obvious open cliff band.
Later in the year, a snow machine or ski approach works best.
Take the road to the south end of Joe's Valley Reservoir. Follow the road south and continue to the big turn back north to Mary's Lake.
From at or near Mary's Lake, head west through some trees to the steep cliff band to the west. Hopefully ice is visible and a beeline can be made. Expect around a half mile approach if near the lake.
Later in the year, a snow machine or ski approach works best.
Take the road to the south end of Joe's Valley Reservoir. Follow the road south and continue to the big turn back north to Mary's Lake.
From at or near Mary's Lake, head west through some trees to the steep cliff band to the west. Hopefully ice is visible and a beeline can be made. Expect around a half mile approach if near the lake.
Sun Angles Details:
Weather Averages
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Prime Climbing Season
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