Northern Gorge Rock Climbing
Areas in Northern Gorge
Adena Wall
2 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
2
Bee Branch
3 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
3
Blackburn Rock
2 /
0 /
0 /
2 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
4
Board Wall
7 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
7
Buzzard's Roost (north gorge)
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0
Camp Store Crag
1 /
2 /
0 /
1 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
4
Chimney Top Rock
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0
Clearcut Wall
3 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
3
Courthouse Rock
4 /
0 /
3 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
5
D_Boone Hut Crag
2 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
2
Dip Wall
18 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
18
Dome, The
5 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
5
Doorish Wall
1 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
1
Dunkan Rock
4 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
4
Eagle Point Buttress
12 /
0 /
1 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
12
Eastern Sky Bridge Ridge
11 /
16 /
1 /
10 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
37
Fortress Wall
32 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
1 /
0 /
0 /
32
Funk Rock City
14 /
16 /
1 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
30
Gray’s Wall
1 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
1
Half Moon Rock
4 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
4
Haystack Rock
6 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
6
Hen's Nest
10 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
10
Indian Creek
41 /
0 /
0 /
3 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
44
Jailhouse Rock
2 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
2
Jazz Rock
4 /
0 /
1 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
4
Jewel Pinnacle
3 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
3
Kentucky Wall, The
20 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
20
Left Flank
3 /
19 /
0 /
1 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
22
Long Wall
36 /
15 /
1 /
10 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
60
Lost Ridge
6 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
6
Lower Sky Bridge Ridge
9 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
9
Lower Small Wall
11 /
0 /
1 /
7 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
18
Lumpy Wall
4 /
0 /
0 /
1 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
5
Mariba Fork
4 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
4
Middle Small Wall
7 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
7
Military Wall
14 /
32 /
0 /
1 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
47
Minas Tirith
2 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
2
Moonshiner's Wall
5 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
5
Muscle Beach
15 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
15
Pebble Beach
21 /
7 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
28
Phantasia
11 /
10 /
1 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
21
Pinch Em Tight
1 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
1
Pistol Ridge
25 /
5 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
30
Princess Arch
8 /
0 /
2 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
8
Purple Valley
11 /
8 /
1 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
19
Raven Rock
3 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
3
Rock Bridge Rd.
0 /
0 /
0 /
5 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
5
Rough Trail
1 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
1
Sassafras Rock
1 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
1
See Rocks
3 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
3
Shallow Boulder
0 /
0 /
0 /
1 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
1
Spring Wall, The
2 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
2
Staircase Wall
2 /
0 /
6 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
6
Symphony Wall
3 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
1 /
0 /
0 /
3
Tarr Ridge
3 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
3
Tower Rock
16 /
0 /
0 /
3 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
19
Tunnel Wall
2 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
2
Wall of Denial
13 /
3 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
16
Western Sky Bridge Ridge
2 /
0 /
0 /
2 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
4
Willie's Wall
4 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
4
Window Wall
5 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
0 /
5
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: | 737 ft | 225 m |
GPS: |
37.78418, -83.68236 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
|
Page Views: | 660,781 total · 11,203/month | |
Shared By: | DrRockso RRG on Jan 10, 2020 | |
Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Details
fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r…
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Description
This section includes all areas North of the Mountain Parkway which exist in the Daniel Boone National Forest and Clifty Wilderness areas. This area is considered by non climbers as the Red River Gorge proper.
Getting There
Take exit 33 for Slade and make a left off the exit, and another left at the Shell gas station. Make a right onto 77 towards 715 (AKA Sky Bridge Road/Scenic Loop)
Alternatively take Exit 40 for Pine Ridge, make a right at the exit and follow 715 for a mile until it makes another right hand turn, and enters the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Alternatively take Exit 40 for Pine Ridge, make a right at the exit and follow 715 for a mile until it makes another right hand turn, and enters the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Classic Climbing Routes at Northern Gorge
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Route Name | Location | Star Rating | Difficulty | Date |
---|---|---|---|---|
● Caver's Route | Tower Rock |
|
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R Trad 4 pitches | |
● Bedtime for Bonzo | Fortress Wall |
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches | |
● Party Time | Fortress Wall |
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches | |
● Autumn | Long Wall |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad | |
● Pogue Ethics | Phantasia |
|
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport | |
● Rock Wars | Long Wall |
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad | |
● To Defy the Laws of Tradition | Left Flank |
|
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport | |
● Creep Show | Phantasia |
|
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport | |
● Super Dario | Eastern Sky Bridge Ridge |
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport | |
● Fuzzy Undercling | Military Wall |
|
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport | |
● King Me | Eastern Sky Bridge Ridge |
|
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport | |
● Eye of the Needle | Funk Rock City |
|
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport | |
● Twinkie | Phantasia |
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport | |
● Tissue Tiger | Military Wall |
|
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport | |
● Mercy, the Huff | Left Flank |
|
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport |
Weather Averages
High
|
Low
|
Precip
|
Days w Precip
|
Prime Climbing Season
J | F | M | A | M | J | J | A | S | O | N | D |
J | F | M | A | M | J | J | A | S | O | N | D |
All Photos Within Northern Gorge
Most Popular · Newest · RandomMore About Northern Gorge
Printer-FriendlyWhat's New
Fixed Hardware Report (2)
Guidebooks (6)
Featured Guidebooks:
THE RED 2nd Edition
Brendan Leader / Onsight Ph…
Covers all sport climbing crags in the Red along with trad climbs within those sport climbing are…
Red River Gorge Rock Climbs North (2015)
By Ray Ellington and Dustin…
The Red River Gorge of Kentucky is one of the most enjoyable places in the world to climb. The Re…
2 Comments