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Metal Walls

New Hampshire > WM: Franconia Notch

Description

The Metal walls are a collection of three moderately sized crags situated around the cliff that is home to Ace of Spades in the winter. This area was developed over the past couple of years by a group of locals spearheaded by Ed Pinskey and has a nice spread of single pitch sport & traditional climbs that range from 5.8 to 5.12-. The rock here is extremely similar to Echo Crag with the exception of the Gonzo wall which features large patches of extremely odd pocketed granite that is not found anywhere else in the notch. This area makes for a good day cragging or afterwork destination as it has a mixture of grades and climbing styles as well as a relatively short approach that puts you within five minutes of all three walls. The crags from left to right are the Gonzo Wall, Joker Crag and Wumbo Wall with Gonzo being furthest uphill to the left of the Ace of Spades waterfall in a slot gully while the Joker/Wumbo crags are in the woods directly to the right.

Getting There

Park at the Cannon Cliff lot (first exit after tram going south) then walk the bike path north towards Echo Lake passing under the highway, quickly coming to a wooden bridge. Break right into the woods before the bridge following a deer trail along the ridge parallel to the drainage. Trend slightly right past three cairns until you come to the mouth where the drainage narrows and steepens. Continue up for 5-8 minutes looking left for a obvious climber trail that breaks off when the stream bed turns into wet muddy slab just past a large down tree. Follow the climbers trail as it breaks left taking you to a steep rocky gully (be careful of loose rock) which deposits you at a plateau in the woods just down and left of the trickling waterfall that is Ace of Spades. From here either continue to scramble up two steep steps above the gully to reach the Gonzo Wall or traverse directly right across the top of the slabs to reach the Joker Crag, with Wumbo wall another 200ft along the trail. For your first time expect a 20-30 minute approach to reach any of the crags. Once you know where you are going it is about 15 minutes of moving uphill.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Punk Hippie
[Hide Photo] Punk Hippie
1. Gonzo Wall
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2. Joker Crag
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3.Wumbo Wall
[Hide Photo] 1. Gonzo Wall 2. Joker Crag 3.Wumbo Wall
The split above the steep rock chute.
[Hide Photo] The split above the steep rock chute.
New Climber Trail
[Hide Photo] New Climber Trail
When to exit the gully onto the climbers trail
[Hide Photo] When to exit the gully onto the climbers trail
Mouth of the drainage below Ace of Spades
[Hide Photo] Mouth of the drainage below Ace of Spades
First turn off the bike path heading North toward Echo Lake
[Hide Photo] First turn off the bike path heading North toward Echo Lake

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Psyched to check this out for some afternoon cragging! Feb 4, 2020
MattWallace
Center Harbor, NH
[Hide Comment] How long is this approach? Also, Does anyone have a listing of all the routes at each crag? Feb 13, 2020
[Hide Comment] Updated the description with estimated approach times. Multiple people were involved in the establishing of each crag, as such there is a slow trickle of info going into the Joker/Wumbo walls that should be totally filled out by the spring. All routes on the gonzo wall are posted. Feb 14, 2020
Eli B
noco
[Hide Comment] Gonzo wall is an interesting nook that will make for one of the most excellent spots to climb on those hot summer days. It is located in a tight north facing gully that always has a breeze. The rock quality is excellent. Jun 13, 2020