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Metal Walls
New Hampshire
> WM: Franconia Notch
Description
The Metal walls are a collection of three moderately sized crags situated around the cliff that is home to Ace of Spades in the winter. This area was developed over the past couple of years by a group of locals spearheaded by Ed Pinskey and has a nice spread of single pitch sport & traditional climbs that range from 5.8 to 5.12-. The rock here is extremely similar to Echo Crag with the exception of the Gonzo wall which features large patches of extremely odd pocketed granite that is not found anywhere else in the notch. This area makes for a good day cragging or afterwork destination as it has a mixture of grades and climbing styles as well as a relatively short approach that puts you within five minutes of all three walls. The crags from left to right are the Gonzo Wall, Joker Crag and Wumbo Wall with Gonzo being furthest uphill to the left of the Ace of Spades waterfall in a slot gully while the Joker/Wumbo crags are in the woods directly to the right.
Getting There
Park at the Cannon Cliff lot (first exit after tram going south) then walk the bike path north towards Echo Lake passing under the highway, quickly coming to a wooden bridge. Break right into the woods before the bridge following a deer trail along the ridge parallel to the drainage. Trend slightly right past three cairns until you come to the mouth where the drainage narrows and steepens. Continue up for 5-8 minutes looking left for a obvious climber trail that breaks off when the stream bed turns into wet muddy slab just past a large down tree. Follow the climbers trail as it breaks left taking you to a steep rocky gully (be careful of loose rock) which deposits you at a plateau in the woods just down and left of the trickling waterfall that is Ace of Spades. From here either continue to scramble up two steep steps above the gully to reach the Gonzo Wall or traverse directly right across the top of the slabs to reach the Joker Crag, with Wumbo wall another 200ft along the trail. For your first time expect a 20-30 minute approach to reach any of the crags. Once you know where you are going it is about 15 minutes of moving uphill.
[Hide Photo] First turn off the bike path heading North toward Echo Lake
THORNTON
Center Harbor, NH
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