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Elevation: 1,018 ft 310 m
GPS: 37.6406, -83.71132
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 23,047 total · 340/month
Shared By: climb2core on Oct 21, 2019 · Updates
Admins: Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek

Description Suggest change

This a new crag with some ongoing development. As such, there are still a number of fixed lines about. Please be respectful and avoid the red tagged lines. This area is highlighted with a large amphitheater with several good lines already open and a couple more that are still being developed. Around the corner, left of the main cave is a shorter wall with a fair number of moderates of decent, if not overly spectacular quality.

Getting There Suggest change

This crag is best approached by taking the trail that is midway down the Lode Hill, just downhill of the obvious pocketed wall. Continue past the Unlode on the logging trail and at the end it will gradually cut up the hill to right. As you come over the top of the hill you will see a large amphitheater. The line directly in front of the trail is Hippie Core Drill Machine. To get to the moderates walk left around the cave and turn the corner to the right to find the wall.

Alternatively, you can walk in from the trail at the back of the large Lode parking lot, that is the right of the new Lode/Bears Den trail.   Take this trail to just before you cross the stream, and cut sharply right back up a trail that heads up the hill that is on your right as you walk in.  Once at the top, this trail joins an old logging road where you cut back left.  A few minute walk from here will put you in view of the amphitheater of South Park.

23 Total Climbs

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Location: South Park Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at South Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 79
Beginnings
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 54
A Crash Pad Love Story
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 80
Festively Plump
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 90
Quantity Over Quality
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 44
About Tree Fiddy
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 130
The Dong Wall
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 44
Drugs are Bad, Mkay?
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 33
UltraVibe Pleasure 2000
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 38
A Bunch of Tree-Hugging Hippie Crap
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 54
Jet Ski Joy Rider
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 55
[Redacted]
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 79
Hippie Core Drill Machine
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 45
Big Gay Al's Big Gay Boat Ride
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 16
Blame Canada
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 12
Broadway Bro Down
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Beginnings
 79
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
A Crash Pad Love Story
 54
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Festively Plump
 80
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Quantity Over Quality
 90
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
About Tree Fiddy
 44
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
The Dong Wall
 130
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Drugs are Bad, Mkay?
 44
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
UltraVibe Pleasure 2000
 33
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
A Bunch of Tree-Hugging Hip…
 38
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Jet Ski Joy Rider
 54
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
[Redacted]
 55
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Hippie Core Drill Machine
 79
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Big Gay Al's Big Gay Boat Ride
 45
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Blame Canada
 16
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Broadway Bro Down
 12
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in South Park »

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Routes Mostly Face: North

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