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Elevation: 2,764 ft 842 m
GPS: 44.37625, -121.13715
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Page Views: 17,415 total · 277/month
Shared By: Chris Hatzai on Aug 30, 2019
Admins: Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball
Warning Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The Little Three Finger Jack is the located climbers’ right of The Big Ben tower. This tower was the last untouched formation in the Monument area and maybe one of the last undeveloped formations in the whole park. Surprising, as the rock on this formation is bullet hard in most spots. Just like a lot of the towers over in the Monument area, some of the routes will have heavily cleaned starts. Rest assured, once you’ve climbed through the once chossy rock, the climbing breaks way to juggy/slopey/crimpy red patina goodness.

There are 9 established routes with independent anchors on The Alex Reed Memorial Wall. The routes on the right side of the wall are characterized by a 4 tiered roof system. Those routes climb directly through or around the 4 roofs. The left side of the L3FJ features longer routes that climb through punchy crux sections clearing bulges and roofs, and all 4 of those routes climb through the amazing red patina slab midway up the wall. 


This wall gets sun all day. It’s one of the first towers to go in the sun over in the Monument area and one of the first to go back in the shade. By 9am it’s in full sun and goes back into the shade at 5pm (during the summer). Definitely a great winter time wall. With the time change during the winter, the wall is in full shade by 3pm. 

Getting There Suggest change

To get to The Little Three Finger Jack, turn right past the bridge and head towards the Monument area. Take the second distinct path along the river trail on your left leading towards The Big Ben Tower and The Little Three Finger Jack. (The path is directly lined up with the LTFJ.) Walk past The Big Ben and arrive at The Little Three Finger Jack.

11 Total Climbs

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Location: (5) Little Three Finger Jack AKA The Alex Reed Memorial Wall Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Little Three Finger Jack AKA The Alex Reed Memorial Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 31
Country Rhoads
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 16
Gravy-Gold
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 10
Rot-Punkt Funk
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 10
Heart of Gold
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 5
Asian Persuasion
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 7
Frogger
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Country Rhoads
 31
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Gravy-Gold
 16
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Rot-Punkt Funk
 10
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Heart of Gold
 10
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Asian Persuasion
 5
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Frogger
 7
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Little Three Finger Jack AKA The Alex Reed Memorial Wall »

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