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Crackenstein

Washington > Olympics & Pacific Coast

Description

Crackenstein offers something completely different to the Port Angeles climbing scene, crack! All of the chain anchors can be accessed by rappelling from various trees above the cliff, and some routes have been bolted.

The rock at Crackenstein is a brittle water laid welded tuff that is quite unusual on the Olympic Peninsula and when freshly broken is a yellowish tan color and may be the lightest colored bedrock found on the peninsula. Unlike airfall welded tuffs the rock at Crackenstein lacks the gas bubbles that create the popular pockets and bucket holds found at crags like Smith Rock in Oregon. The water laid tuff has a rough and grainy texture with a high coefficient of friction; and can be tough on skin. Trad climbing is NOT recommended here. 

Please don't let your ego risk injuring yourself or endangering our access to this incredible spot. Mt Erie has some fantastic trad, and there are some stunning alpine routes in the Olympics if you're set on placing pro.

This crag faces roughly northeast and is in old growth forest so is shady and cool on most hot days, and because of its near ridgetop position it is often dry in the winter when nothing else in the Port Angeles area is.

Access to Crackenstein is currently difficult, but the Olympic Peninsula Climbers are in the process of creating a new access trail that will offer safer rescue options and an easier approach. If you have questions or comments, please join the Olympic Peninsula Climbing community on Facebook and get a hold of Peter!

A big thanks to Steve and Shane Miller for discovering this incredible spot, and credit to Kevin Rose for efforts in cleaning and development of this area. Kevin also created the original Crackenstein page here. 

Approach

The prior approach trail has become very overgrown and difficult to find if you haven't been there before, it also crosses through a archeological site. Access to the area is not advised, but the Olympic Peninsula Climbers is working to make a new trail with easier access when the gates to Striped peak are closed.

History

TBA

Routes from Left to Right

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Climber leading Crackenstein.
[Hide Photo] Climber leading Crackenstein.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

fossil
Terrebonne OR
[Hide Comment] With the prevailing ethic in the Port Angeles area that all rock climbs must be bolted, I hope the gate stays shut for good. I would rather see this area revert back to the moss and vegetation than see it become a bolted crack climbing area. Jul 7, 2021
Mack Johnson
Silverdale, WA
[Hide Comment] Hey, true that. A friend took me there this summer for the first time and I was bummed to see some of the cracks had been bolted.
We didn't climb, but it's clearly a tough area, intimidating but striking. The developers had a trad vision and acted on it. People should respect the FA style there, even if we only TR/headpoint.
Where have climbers gotten the idea that ethics are flexible and anybody can have their way with a cliff? I hope that someone can talk to the person and educate them on what to NOT do. Nov 14, 2021
Daniel Provasnik
Bonne Terre, MO
[Hide Comment] These approach directions really need to be updated. Jan 22, 2023
[Hide Comment] the approach instructions here are pretty awful, approach looks unpassable ATM you follow the bunker ridge trail upto said bunker and walk left of it on an extremely overgrown ledge was out there 2 days ago and could barely walk across the passage looked like the scramble got overgrown and you can barely find it. would recommend staying away until a new trail is built or this is cleaned and made less risky Sep 6, 2023