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Mills Canyon Bouldering
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| Elevation: | 5,325 ft | 1,623 m |
| GPS: |
36.07118, -104.35958 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 35,189 total · 464/month | |
| Shared By: | Anus Herder on Feb 21, 2019 | |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is can be easily damaged when recently wet.
Details
Please do not climb on actively wet or recently wet sandstone. Holds more easily break off and problems will be permanently damaged. After a heavy storm, the rock can remain wet, sometimes for several days even though it may not appear wet. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ROY during or for up to 36 hours after rain/snow. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp, then do not climb.
Access Issue: Road Closure - Nov. 2020
Details
Forest Service road 600, which goes into Mills canyon, is temporarily closed for about 3 weeks while work is done on the road to replace the low water crossing near the ruins. This should only effect access and bouldering in Mills Canyon itself, like Roadside Attraction, First Streambed, The Bench, etc. All Mesteño areas will remain open. The Rim campground will remain open as well, but the Canyon Campground and the road into the canyon will be closed.
Description
Not quite as good rock or concentration as the Mesteño area but still a great area. Many great problems are located in Mills. Consider warming up at the Bench and definitely check out the many boulders in the upper-roadside area. Parking is very limited along this road and it's prohibited park on the road shoulders. Park only in pullouts off the side of the road or hike down from the campground area.
Getting There
Ideally, when visiting the Roadside area, park at the top of the hill in the large dirt pullout just before the gate/cattle guard. Walk down the road to the boulders. It's even reasonable to leave your vehicle parked at your campsite at the Mills Canyon Rim Campground and walk from your campsite.
From the parking at the top of the hill, walk down the road to a hairpin turn and down across the wash. Once across the wash, the majority of the boulders are on your left between the road and the cliff line.
It should be noted that you can continue to drive down this road to the Mills Canyon Campground, another campground if the Mills Canyon Rim Campground is full.
From the parking at the top of the hill, walk down the road to a hairpin turn and down across the wash. Once across the wash, the majority of the boulders are on your left between the road and the cliff line.
It should be noted that you can continue to drive down this road to the Mills Canyon Campground, another campground if the Mills Canyon Rim Campground is full.
Classic Climbing Routes at Mills Canyon
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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