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| Elevation: | 5,862 ft | 1,787 m |
| GPS: |
36.05624, -104.36164 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 131,891 total · 1,747/month | |
| Shared By: | Anus Herder on Feb 21, 2019 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is can be easily damaged when recently wet.
Details
Description
The Roy climbing area is nestled deep in cattle ranching territory along the Canadian River valley in the North Eastern corner of New Mexico. The Roy climbing area is named after the eponymous small town just a short distance from the climbing areas.
The area is managed by the Kiowa National Grasslands, a subsidiary of the Cibola National Forest. If you have any queries about climbing or camping here, or are curious about hazardous weather conditions, do not hesitate to phone them: (575) 374 9652. They are very friendly and would love to hear more from climbers. There is a new informational kiosk that has been installed at the entrance to the Mills Canyon area, at the Smokey the Bear sign. Check in here to see the latest updates.
Roy offers many superb boulder problems, sport climbs and even some trad climbs for those willing to venture a bit further than the average Roy climber. Located just next to Canadian River, which created this canyon as it cut through the Dakota sandstone. At first I was pretty reluctant to put anything on the internet, but with the release of the awesome New Mexico Bouldering Guidebook, the internet and forums/articles on this place I thought it was of good use. [update 2021: the guidebook is currently sold out in print but available as an app from Vertical Life]
Please tread lightly and respectfully. Right now land owners and the forest service are on good terms with climbers and climbing visitors must be on their best behavior when visiting this relatively new climbing destination. Please close all gates behind you, stay on established roads, drive slowly and heed all road closure signs. Make sure to clean up after yourself. This means packing out your used toilet paper (and use Wag Bags please.) Stay on established trails and camp in existing campsites so we can all continue to recreate in this beautiful area.
The best times to climb at Roy are mid-fall to mid-spring, otherwise it will be just be too hot. Many contend going to Joe's or Hueco is a better option, with more established problems and bigger areas, and, although this may be true, Roy holds a small special place in an out-there, wild and special setting.
Roy, NM Must Reads:
- The Climber's Guide to Bouldering in Roy, New Mexico (Outside magazine)
- Roy, New Mexico: America's Next Great Bouldering Destination (Climbing magazine)
- Roy, New Mexico (Patagonia)
Getting There
From Colorado Springs or Albuquerque it's about 3.5 hours if you're driving, from both routes you'll use the I-25.
From I-25 South (Santa Fe/Albuquerque): Exit I-25 at Wagon Mound, drive east to Roy. Take a left, drive about 10 miles north and look for a left hand gravel/dirt road turnoff marked "Mills Canyon Campground". After ~5 miles on this gravel county road continue straight through the cattle guard and sign for Kiowa National Grasslands (Smokey the Bear).
Continue straight for Mills canyon campsite and Mills Canyon bouldering or take the left turn for Mesteño Canyon Bouldering (Upper Mesteño, Middle Mesteño, a.k.a. The Jumbles) and dispersed camping options. The main trailheads have all now been clearly signed and there is an information kiosk both at the Smokey the Bar fork and at Middle Mesteño trailhead.
From I-25 North (Colorado Springs/Denver): Exit I-25 at Springer, drive east towards Clayton for ~20 miles, turn right (south) towards Roy. Drive ~15 miles then take a right onto a dirt road following the turnoff for "Mills Canyon Campground". See above for remainder of directions.
Local Amenities
The nearby towns of Roy, Spring and Mosquero have a number of amenities worth visiting. Climbers passing through these towns can make a positive economic impact by stopping in and throwing down a few ducats.
Roy: [20 min drive south
- Ma Sally's Mercantile - Now offers groceries and a small tea room. They also sell chalk and Roy bouldering T shirts!
- La Casita Bunkhouse - Lodging that sleeps 6. Teepees also available!
- The Inn at Roy - Four rooms available via AirBnB.
- Harding County General Store - Locally owned grocery and general store for those forgotten food items. [Closed in 2020 but possibly may re-open at some point.]
- There's also a gas station and an opening-soon bakery/cafe next to Ma Sally's
- Beware, though, Sundays in Roy are dead. Nothing is open (but you can still fill up your gas tank.)
- Cozy Corner Lodge - Lodging that sleeps 8 with many amenities.
Springer: [50 min drive north]
- The Broken Arrow - Locally owned motel with character. Quite nice.
- Springer Super Market - Locally owned grocery store.
- Public Library. Wifi internet.
- A couple of gas stations.
Mosquero: [40 min drive south]
- Callahan West Brewery - Beer!
Classic Climbing Routes at Roy
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