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Elevation: 167 ft 51 m
GPS: 44.80594, -63.16034
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 17,155 total · 201/month
Shared By: Nathan Benjamin on May 6, 2018
Admins: Will Bland, Greg Hughes

Description Suggest change

Castle is one of the more recently developed crags in the area. It is predominantly short single pitch sport climbing with low exposure. It is in the woods and can get very buggy when the bugs are out. Despite the new and short nature of the cliff it has some very good climbing. It has quickly become popular with those new to the sport owing to its low exposure, short routes, and concentration of easy and moderate climbs.

Getting There Suggest change

Take the 107 out of Dartmouth and drive to its end. Turn right onto Marine Drive. When you see Dobit’s Bakery on your right and a train museum on your left take the next left onto 357. Keep an eye out for a bridge on your left. Turn here onto Bayers Mill Road. When the road turns right angle slightly left onto the dirt road instead. This is Rookery Way. Drive until you see a nice clearing on your left for parking.

After parking walk parallel to the road for a hundred feet until you are following a path. Continue along the path and up the hill. At the top of the hill go left and down a small hill to cross a bog. To your right while crossing the Bog you will see some slab climbing which is accessible by scrambling to a low ledge. At the far side of the bog follow the path down the hill and move right to the cliff.

33 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Castle

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 5
● Siege the Castle
Trad
Rampart
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
● Out for Blood
Trad
Flanking Tower
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 7
● Wizards of the Castles
Sport
Keep
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
● Use Your Magic Beans
Sport
Moat
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 7
● You Don't Know Jack
Sport
Flanking Tower
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 8
● Stoke-i-fy
Sport
Keep
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 15
● Taming the Shrew
Sport
Watch Tower
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
● Courage
Sport
Watch Tower
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 8
● The Golden Egg
Sport
Gatehouse
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Siege the Castle Rampart
 5
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
● Out for Blood Flanking Tower
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
● Wizards of the Castles Keep
 7
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
● Use Your Magic Beans Moat
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● You Don't Know Jack Flanking Tower
 7
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Stoke-i-fy Keep
 8
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Taming the Shrew Watch Tower
 15
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Courage Watch Tower
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● The Golden Egg Gatehouse
 8
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Castle »

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